1973 Celica ST (considering subframe connectors)

[white_cross]

So I have had a couple evenings to work on the car. My carb rebuild kit came in:

 

 

I took the whole carb apart and soaked all the metal parts in Lacquer Thinner. Then I blew out all the small holes with carb cleaner till the cleaner came out of the other port. I finished cleaning by blowing out the small holes and passages with compressed air:

 

 

 

I put the carb all back together and mounted it back on the motor and it still would not fire. It would start and stall right away. Then I noticed a clear puddle running towards the drain. My fuel pump was leaking a lot from the weep holes. Time for a new one and no one in town could get one. Rockauto.com has them and with shipping and Canadian exchange rate it is $25 dollars cheaper than locally if they could have got them! So in the first week of December I should have my brand new fuel pump. I am guessing there was not enough fuel pressure with a leaky fuel pump to keep the motor running.

 

 I also replaced a bunch of coolant lines I have had old hoses burst on a different car more than once so it is not worth the risk to me to run old hoses especially if this car is going to see some track time:

 

[white_cross]

 

Next up was my hood flutes off of my 1972 Celica. I made cardboard templates off of the 1972 hood and used it to mark where to drill the mounting holes on the 1973 hood. Then I drilled the 4 holes needed to mount the hood Flutes and put them on the 1973:

 

[white_cross]

 

Yesterday I started mounting the flat lights and today I finished.

I could have just cut out the small section needed and mounted up the flat lights but I am pretty fussy and decided to make it look factory here is the end result:

 

 

This is how I went about the installation.

 

Out with the old:

 

Just for reference on where the flat lights do not fit:

 

 

I went over to the 1972 and drew up card board templates then transfered the pattern to the 1973:

 

 

Cut out some metal:

 

 

Some hammer and dolly work:

 

 

and it fits nicely:

 

 

So now I have to figure out how to mount the fuel door. I have heard of guys glueing on studs to mount the fuel door but I am thinking about trying to mount the fuel door and still have a functioning hinge, maybe for a small compartment or something. I also need to now rewire the flat lights so I can get the brakes and turn signals to work properly. I may noticed an extra hole in the light strip with a ground running to it maybe I could mount a socket in that hole and run the signal light into it? I guess I will find out shortly. I want to tackle the rust holes and rocker panel repair soon. So I guess I will have to get a 220 plug wired up into the garage. My dad has a really nice welder and said I could borrow it once I got the garage wired up with 220. 

[white_cross]

So I spent last evening installing the fuel door. I removed the sprig and hardware I read somewhere about someone drilling and tapping 3 spots on the back of the fuel door I looked it over and it made sense so that is what I did then I drilled 3 holes in the body and mounted up the fuel door. I had to do some metal work on the tail panel to clear the studs for the ST badge etc. It may not look like much effort to install the door but to get it to all line up nicely and flush fitting took some time to get right. So I will be making the parts on the chrome trim of the tail lights and fuel door matte black like OEM. Thought about painting but paint seems to peel on chrome. So my thought was to go to the sign shop and get a sheet of black vinyl decal and put that on and I have no paint peeling issues. 

Here is the tail panel right now:

[MRS Joe]

Make sure to use anti seize on the fuel door hardware as it will seize in there. I've found some of those pieces to be the worst for that.

[Jim Eh.]

Those lights do look much better. Lots cleaner. Good choice.

[white_cross]

Make sure to use anti seize on the fuel door hardware as it will seize in there. I've found some of those pieces to be the worst for that.

 

Good call! I will do it after I get the paint job done.

 

Those lights do look much better. Lots cleaner. Good choice.

 

Thank you. It was a fun little project. Now to straighten out the rear bumper brackets from my 1972 so I can mount that up.

[white_cross]

I figured out the wiring for the flat lights. I wanted to keep the original plastic plug from the flat lights so this is how I went about it:

 

I decided to make one bulb a signal/flasher and one a brake bulb. So I cut the wire free for the middle brake light and put some shrink tubing over the solder point on the outer brake light tubing and put the pin back in the oem connector. This becomes my signal/flasher bulb:

 

To use the oem plug I needed to add an extra metal pin/wire to the plastic plug. Here I am soldering a piece of wire with the metal pin to the middle brake light bulb and then heat shrink tubing over the solder joint. Then I pushed the pin into the connector:

 

 

So now the middle bulb and the outer bulb are separate. The bulbs are duel element so I did not touch the tail light wires so when I turn on the lights both bulbs still light up. Here is the finished wiring modified light assembly:

 

 

I also had to sacrifice the tail light wiring harness from my 1972 Celica to get the pig tail plastic plug to connect to the flat lights. I added a wire and pin to that plug too. I cut off the 1973 tail light plug and and soldered the 1972 plug in place. I put the heat shrink tubing in place over the solder joints. and electrical taped it up all nice:

 

 

and a nice oem finished light installation:

 

And then there was light:

 

A little video demonstration:

[Jim Eh.]

Yup. Good choice.

[white_cross]

Yup. Good choice.

Thank you

[white_cross]

I was thinking about engine options again today. I found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3sge-3sgte-toyota-Bellhousing-W58-55-56-57-/272067525651?hash=item3f587cfc13This could allow me to run the w58 transmission with the beams black top motor. The 6 speed would be sweet but i have some thoughts on using the w58 with the beams. Using the w58 allows me to keep my oem speedometer and speedo cable. I like the oem gauges. I don't have to cut out the trans tunnel and modify it to fit the 6 speed. Which allow me to keep my heater and centre console. I have a w58 available from an 1984 celica for $200 possibly free if I can hook the guy up with some late 1970's early eighties toyota parts trucks. 

[MRS Joe]

Is the 6 speed that much larger in size? The gearing would be tall on the w58 for the beams and it would fall out of its sweet spot between shifts wouldn't it?

The 6 speed is a w series based box as well as I knew, so the old style cable based speed sensor may fit it.

Budget an old w58 will probably need a rebuild. They weren't the strongest of transmissions.

Even the 2001+ is300 in North America used a w58 and was the strongest one made.

[white_cross]

Is the 6 speed that much larger in size? The gearing would be tall on the w58 for the beams and it would fall out of its sweet spot between shifts wouldn't it?

The 6 speed is a w series based box as well as I knew, so the old style cable based speed sensor may fit it.

Budget an old w58 will probably need a rebuild. They weren't the strongest of transmissions.

Even the 2001+ is300 in North America used a w58 and was the strongest one made.

 

Here is an example of another 73 celica with the modified trans tunnel to make the 6 speed fit: http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=12526&st=0

[Riverman]

http://bringatrailer.com/2015/12/18/18r-g-twin-cam-swapped-sharp-1974-toyota-celica-gt/

[white_cross]

http://bringatrailer.com/2015/12/18/18r-g-twin-cam-swapped-sharp-1974-toyota-celica-gt/

 

pretty sweet. I hope mine to end up same quality and style as this one when I am done. I was impressed by the price at almost $22,000 usd (with exchange rate that puts it right around $30,000 cad) with 58 bids on it on ebay. I have never seen one of these go for that kind of money. I guess the value is on its way up on these cars. Here is the ebay link for it.

[TRDTurko]

wow you are a lucky man to find two of those. I just hope when I actually have the time and money to do a 77, one will come along that I dont have to pay $30,000 for lol

[white_cross]

wow you are a lucky man to find two of those. I just hope when I actually have the time and money to do a 77, one will come along that I dont have to pay $30,000 for lol

I feel pretty lucky to be able to own the cars too. I have been dreaming up a plan for the pair of cars. The 1973 is probably going to be my street/show car that I plan to finish first. And thoughts for motor options will be the Beams or the 18RG. The body will be finished in the factory Toyota teal (Orion Turquoise Metallic) with the factory side ST stripes and a couple of custom touches but modelled after a 1971-72. The 1972, due to so much rust issues, will probably become my track car with an F20C motor/trans and lightweight parts and a quick rust repair job (not show quality, but fun quality). Basically just build it to have fun with and not having to worry about having to damage a show build car. It will have after market suspension, wide body flares, primer paint, a pair of racing seats, no interior, and a roll cage, etc.

These are my thoughts at this point.

[TRDTurko]

thats pretty cool. I was planning on pretty much doing the same with my two Alltrac's untill I needed money for the closing costs on our house. So the original race car was sacrificed. The chassis that was going to be the street/show car will now be a race car for at least a while but I wont take it so far that it can never be a comfortable street car again if I want to convert it back.

[white_cross]

thats pretty cool. I was planning on pretty much doing the same with my two Alltrac's untill I needed money for the closing costs on our house. So the original race car was sacrificed. The chassis that was going to be the street/show car will now be a race car for at least a while but I wont take it so far that it can never be a comfortable street car again if I want to convert it back.

Tough choice for sure, but the house is a smart investment. I look forward to seeing your Celica this summer.

[white_cross]

So it has been a while since an update. My hard drive crashed and I had no way of uploading pictures.

 

I picked up an english wheel and bead roller with my christmas bonus:

 

 

I have started making patches out of 18 gauge steel. Once I have enough patches made I will weld them in place.

 

 

 

 

 

This whole piece is rotten:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

inner rocker done:

 

 

This was a practice to get the ribbing in the floor board figured out:

[Jim Eh.]

Nice work

[white_cross]

Nice work

Thank you.

[white_cross]

I have had some more fun making up some patch repair panels. I ended up making a portion of the driver side floor. The patch goes up to the frame rail. I am kind of enjoying the fact that there are no restoration panels. I get to learn a lot about making my own panels.

Cut out the old piece:

Crusty vs new and shiny:

Ready to be welded in once i sand blast and epoxy prime the arias to be welded:

So I am almost ready to weld all this stuff together and move on to the passenger side. I considered sending the old cut out to Wolf Steel so they can use it as a template to fab up more repair panels for other people who need them.

[TRDTurko]

awesome work. having the right tools helps alot. I need to pick up a bead roller as well. I have gotten away with not having an english wheel so far.

[white_cross]

11 hours ago, TRDTurko said:

awesome work. having the right tools helps alot. I need to pick up a bead roller as well. I have gotten away with not having an english wheel so far.

Thank you. You can do with out the english wheel. Having it just makes some things easier. I also used the english wheel to "pre-stretch" the arias where I bead rolled the ribs in the floor patch. Pre stretching the ribs helps reduce the oil can effect once you add the ribs into the steel.

[conebasher]

Excellent work-I thought those panels were all bought until I read that you made them. Very impressed

[white_cross]

On March 18, 2016 at 8:46 PM, conebasher said:

Excellent work-I thought those panels were all bought until I read that you made them. Very impressed

Thank you for the complements. 

[white_cross]

I am almost ready weld the driver foot well aria together. I have all the patches made up. Next is sand blasting the weld arias. applying weld through primer to those arias and welding it all together. Here is my current progress:

I finished up the patch making for this aria with the 90 deg piece that runs under the chassis brace:


and the bottom side:

Here is a sample of how I plan to weld the driver foot well aria back together:
1) fire wall section first

2)door jamb bottom section

Need to fill this missing area:

3)back side of jamb work: 

4)floor pan:

5)inner rocker: 

I got kind of excited when I saw all the pieces work together. They may look like the fit is off but it is actually quite a good fit I am just roughly holding all the pieces together.

[white_cross]

While I was on dorikaze.net I saw another guys build where he built some sub frame connectors that connected the front and rear sub frames. The connectors looked quite stock when he was done but would have added a lot of strength to his car in the flex department. I am really considering doing the same thing on this project here is a link to the forum post I am talking about: page 1 with the template making. http://www.dorikaze.net/showthread.php?23550-jz-in-my-pants/page14 and page 2 with the fabrication: http://www.dorikaze.net/showthread.php?23550-jz-in-my-pants/page15

Also I have seen guys tack weld all the body seams on panel joints dose it really make a difference for body rigidity?

[TRDTurko]

I have never heard of a profesional race team that did not seam weld their production based unibody race cars. So yes it makes a difference. If you were planning on autocrossing the car though you may want to look up the rules before doing that because could put it in a very high class.

ps. just a side note I do not know what melody your car is singing just yet so I'm guesing autocorrect was messing with you when trying to spell "area".