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Igor

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Igor last won the day on May 24 2020

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About Igor

  • Birthday 09/18/1987

core_pfieldgroups_99

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    Winnipeg
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    Cars, Architecture, Photography
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    Designer

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  1. Might be best to ask in the Hot Laps/Time Attack section of the forums but I did check the registration page and this is what it says: Any four-wheeled vehicle is permitted however it must be dimensionally wider than it is tall. Convertibles are permitted providing they have an OEM Hard-Top or OEM/Aftermarket installed roll protection. All convertibles must contact the registrar to ensure their vehicle is permitted! All entrants must have completed annual tech form for the vehicle that is registered. You will not be permitted on the road course without it. All vehicles with roll cages, must complete the race-tech form and present the car and the form to the tech inspector or chief scrutineer. Vehicles with roll bars or roll cages are subject to inspection from the chief scrutineer. Upon checking in, inform the registrar that you have registered with a vehicle with a roll cage. SNELL SA helmet use is mandatory for vehicles with factory or aftermarket roll protection. So it sounds like you'll need a roll bar or hard top to be able to lap. I assume if your helmet is lower than the roll bar or doesn't contact the hard top then you should be okay but this may be up to the organizers/chief scrutineer.
  2. I guess it depends if your rotors are seized on or not. I have yet to have any rotors stick but I also do not drive my car during the winter. The DTC-60s would not work well at autocross because they do not have a high initial bite since they need more heat in them to get them in their optimal working range. The optimal heat range for DTC-60s is around 700-1100F, which I doubt you'll ever see at autocross. For autocross, you want something that doesn't require much heat for them to start biting. Something like the HPS 5.0, with an optimal heat range of 100-550F, or an HP+, with an optimal heat range of 300-600F, would be better suited for autocross. You could even run any oem pad at autocross. DTC-70s would probably be overkill. I actually ordered the DTC-30s for my car but due to quality control issues they ended up sending me DTC-60s instead. Next time around I'd probably get the HT10s or maybe give the DTC-30s a shot. You could probably get away without replacing the rotor. You'll just have to make sure you bed in your track pads every time you switch. I'm not sure what others here run, but I just have the HPS pads in the rears since majority of the brake bias is to the front wheels. If you're going with DTC-60s or DTC-70s maybe you'll want something a bit more aggressive in the back for a better pairing but I have not experienced many issues with my HPS pads in the rear and I haven't noticed much wear on the pads either. I'm sure even oem pads would be fine in the rear. If you use DTC-70s on the street you'll probably notice that your stopping distance will become much greater as the time for the pads to reach their operating temperatures will be greater. I'd imagine this might get even worse if it's cooler out or raining. You'll also get more noise, produce more brake dust (hope you don't have white wheels), and increase wear on the pads/rotors. Personally speaking, I'd rather daily drive a set of $75-$100 pads and wear them out over a few years instead of a $250-$300 set of pads that might only last a season...maybe two. Hard to say. Could be a factor since steelies don't dissipate heat as well as a set of alloy wheels. Are you planning on upgrading your wheels in the future?
  3. I would definitely recommend starting with upgrading your brake fluid first and then start looking at brake pads. ATE Type 200 or Motul RBF 660 are popular options. I believe Speed Factor stocks Motul regularly so it is easier to get a hold of. Another potential upgrade to consider would be swapping our your rubber brake lines with some braided stainless steel lines. They won't improve braking performance but they may improve the feeling of your brake pedals (firmer pedal under braking) as rubber brake lines tend to expand under high pressure. This is definitely not required but might be a worth while upgrade in the future. As far as pads go, there are a number of manufacturers that you can go with. Hawk seem to be the easiest to get and they have a pad for a wide range of working temperatures. If it's your daily driver then you might want to think about having two sets of pads (maybe even rotors); a set for the the street and a set for the track. The reason being, track pads often need more heat/higher temps to reach their optimal operating range to give you the best stopping power. You typically wouldn't see these types of temperatures on the street so they may not have the best stopping capabilities when cold or under light braking. There are pads that work well as a dual duty pads which operate well at lower temperatures and can handle higher temperatures. They usually don't have as high of a heat range as dedicated track pads. Hawk Performance offers a wide variety of pads for different applications. - For street and light track (autocross) the most popular are the Hawk HPS or HP+. They offer OEM+ type of braking performance and have a good initial bite which works well for autocross but will not be able to handle laps around Gimli for long. They are decent pads but tend to produce a bit more dust and noise (mostly HP+) than OEM pads and are fairly easy on brake rotors. - For street/track duty they offer the Hawk DTC-15, DTC-30, and the HT10. They have a wide operating temperature range and will work for both street and track but you may find yourself getting some brake fade after continuous hard breaking as performance tends to drop between 900F and 1200F. They tend to create more brake dust than the HPS/HP+ and you'll get some noise under light braking. They are a bit more harsh on brake rotors but nothing significant. - For track pads they offer the DTC-60 and the DTC-70. They need a bit of heat in them before you get the initial bite (100F/300F) but work well all the way up to 1600F before dropping off. They tend to produce a lot more brake dust and noise than their other pads but they also provide the best performance on track. They will wear out rotors at a faster pace and there is a higher risk of warping rotors or even cracking them due to the higher heat but this is also dependent on the quality and thickness of the rotor. Using them outside of their optimal operating range will cause them to wear out quicker. You can look at Hawk's brake pad compound chart here to see what the operating range for each pad is. I urge you to also check out their website for torque ratings for each pad. That should give you an idea of what might work best for you. Keep in mind, the weight of the car, driver experience, and stopping power will play a factor in determining which pad will work best for you. As stated before, there are a number of manufacturers that make performance brake pads but my experience is mostly with Hawk so I'll let others chime in with those. For my car (Integra at about 2500-2600lbs) I run the Hawk HPS for daily driving and autocross and switch to the DTC-60s when at Gimli. One more thing to keep in mind, some pad compounds are not compatible with others and could leave deposits on the rotors when swapping between different pad compounds. A good idea would be to contact the pad manufacturer and see if there may be compatibility issues within their line up. As far as rotors go, OEM or similar would be fine. I don't think you'll see much performance benefits between slotted or cross drilled rotors vs standard blank rotors. I've had good experience with Centric rotors (about $35/rotor for my car on rockauto) but I'm sure any blank rotors will be fine to use. Personally, I swap pads and rotors between daily driving and track days (usually takes about 15-20 minutes and only a few bolts). It keeps the DTC-60 compound on the rotor, so additional bedding in isn't required, and I know that if I have any issues with pads/rotors, I can swap everything out and make it back home. Swapping out pads/rotors is fairly straight forward with even the most basic tools. If you're not sure how to do it I'm sure someone at the track can show you quickly or you can probably find videos on youtube. I'm sure I've missed some stuff but hopefully this helps you get pointed in the right direction.
  4. Disregard. Wallet found. Awesome track say today even tho it was a bit chilly. Thank you to all the organizers and corner workers!
  5. Your best bet is to email Charyl. I think this issue pops up when you try to register for both saturday and sunday together.
  6. Feel free to read it yourself. https://www.gov.mb.ca/covid19/soe.html
  7. Prior to spending money on additional car modifications (aside from tires) I would suggest getting in more seat time. You can have the fastest car out there but if your driving skills aren't up to the task you will always post slow time. Attend more events and have the rookie instructor ride with you (great for feed back), attend the two schools that are offered throughout the year (tons of feedback and seat time) and you'll start noticing your time get faster and faster.
  8. I currently have #18 for lapping and tried to get #18 for time attack as I have #18 for autocross as well. Would be nice to have one number for all 3. Want to use #118 instead?
  9. Is there a paved lot there? I thought it was just gravel.
  10. 2019 SCCA Solo rules show that it is eligible to autocross. Classing as follows: HS (Street), STS (Street Touring), SMFS (Modified) depending on vehicle modifications.
  11. Thanks. I was able to check my slow, slow times on the bulletin board while on site and everything seemed to be working. I didn't realize there was an online place to check lap times. Neat.
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