I would definitely recommend starting with upgrading your brake fluid first and then start looking at brake pads. ATE Type 200 or Motul RBF 660 are popular options. I believe Speed Factor stocks Motul regularly so it is easier to get a hold of. Another potential upgrade to consider would be swapping our your rubber brake lines with some braided stainless steel lines. They won't improve braking performance but they may improve the feeling of your brake pedals (firmer pedal under braking) as rubber brake lines tend to expand under high pressure. This is definitely not required but might be a worth while upgrade in the future.
As far as pads go, there are a number of manufacturers that you can go with. Hawk seem to be the easiest to get and they have a pad for a wide range of working temperatures. If it's your daily driver then you might want to think about having two sets of pads (maybe even rotors); a set for the the street and a set for the track. The reason being, track pads often need more heat/higher temps to reach their optimal operating range to give you the best stopping power. You typically wouldn't see these types of temperatures on the street so they may not have the best stopping capabilities when cold or under light braking. There are pads that work well as a dual duty pads which operate well at lower temperatures and can handle higher temperatures. They usually don't have as high of a heat range as dedicated track pads.
Hawk Performance offers a wide variety of pads for different applications.
- For street and light track (autocross) the most popular are the Hawk HPS or HP+. They offer OEM+ type of braking performance and have a good initial bite which works well for autocross but will not be able to handle laps around Gimli for long. They are decent pads but tend to produce a bit more dust and noise (mostly HP+) than OEM pads and are fairly easy on brake rotors.
- For street/track duty they offer the Hawk DTC-15, DTC-30, and the HT10. They have a wide operating temperature range and will work for both street and track but you may find yourself getting some brake fade after continuous hard breaking as performance tends to drop between 900F and 1200F. They tend to create more brake dust than the HPS/HP+ and you'll get some noise under light braking. They are a bit more harsh on brake rotors but nothing significant.
- For track pads they offer the DTC-60 and the DTC-70. They need a bit of heat in them before you get the initial bite (100F/300F) but work well all the way up to 1600F before dropping off. They tend to produce a lot more brake dust and noise than their other pads but they also provide the best performance on track. They will wear out rotors at a faster pace and there is a higher risk of warping rotors or even cracking them due to the higher heat but this is also dependent on the quality and thickness of the rotor. Using them outside of their optimal operating range will cause them to wear out quicker.
You can look at Hawk's brake pad compound chart here to see what the operating range for each pad is. I urge you to also check out their website for torque ratings for each pad. That should give you an idea of what might work best for you. Keep in mind, the weight of the car, driver experience, and stopping power will play a factor in determining which pad will work best for you. As stated before, there are a number of manufacturers that make performance brake pads but my experience is mostly with Hawk so I'll let others chime in with those. For my car (Integra at about 2500-2600lbs) I run the Hawk HPS for daily driving and autocross and switch to the DTC-60s when at Gimli. One more thing to keep in mind, some pad compounds are not compatible with others and could leave deposits on the rotors when swapping between different pad compounds. A good idea would be to contact the pad manufacturer and see if there may be compatibility issues within their line up.
As far as rotors go, OEM or similar would be fine. I don't think you'll see much performance benefits between slotted or cross drilled rotors vs standard blank rotors. I've had good experience with Centric rotors (about $35/rotor for my car on rockauto) but I'm sure any blank rotors will be fine to use. Personally, I swap pads and rotors between daily driving and track days (usually takes about 15-20 minutes and only a few bolts). It keeps the DTC-60 compound on the rotor, so additional bedding in isn't required, and I know that if I have any issues with pads/rotors, I can swap everything out and make it back home. Swapping out pads/rotors is fairly straight forward with even the most basic tools. If you're not sure how to do it I'm sure someone at the track can show you quickly or you can probably find videos on youtube.
I'm sure I've missed some stuff but hopefully this helps you get pointed in the right direction.