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donrolandofurioso

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donrolandofurioso last won the day on June 5

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  1. Typically, TC is also monitoring engine rpm and load. If the engine rpm is congruent with the load placed on the engine, and none of the tires change their speed differential, then TC has no reason to come on. This feature also allows the speed sensor circuits to be utilized as a tire pressure monitor system: If one tire starts to turn faster than the rest, despite a lack of power demand, the tire must be changing its rolling diameter. That can only happen through deflation, therefore a warning light will get triggered (and no TC comes on). To my knowledge, this type of pressure monitoring does not meet current US standards and therefore is not as common in North America (although some Nissan had it), but can be found very often in other parts of the world.
  2. On the typical Smart Fortwo (not smart car, or Smart Car) that would translate into a bit over 4/32nds, which falls into the common range of 2/32nds (on low profile tires) to 4/32nds on regular street tires.
  3. Not sure which forums you are talking about, but fact is that I personally have driven numerous different vehicles with a semi-inflated tire, and unless the rolling diameter is dramatically different (10 - 20%) AND you are hard on the throttle, TC or ESC will not come on. The car needs to see a clear "wheelspin" for TC to activate, which requires a prolonged speed difference while the ECM sees a power demand.
  4. You will pretty much have to wait for their answer, because the classing is not just based on power-to-weight ratio alone; there are other factors such as suspension type etc. involved. I know from personal experience that it can take a long time for them to answer...as a matter of fact, one of my inquiries has been completely ignored after they initially started to look into it. The regulations stipulate that any car that can't be classified needs to be placed into Mod1, the highest class. Now, I think most people would agree that this is not the class you should be in, and if everybody agrees, we could let you run in a lower class. However, for safety's sake, that lower class should be at least one, if not two higher than what you think the car should be in. Not only because the aforementioned reservations regarding the various contributing factors to the classing, but also because most people forget some modifications, or do not know that their modifications change their classing. The penalty for classing yourself too low vastly exceeds the handicap of having classed yourself too high. And ignorance won't protect you from punishment.... Hopefully they will come back to you soon, and we have a good starting point to evaluate your car. If they have not reponded by the first competition weekend, we will have our TA Director evaluate your scenario and see whether we can get you into a lower than the default Mod1 class.
  5. Realistically, it just depends on the rolling diameter of the replacement tire compared to the rest of the tires. A lot of tire and car dealers have focused on the point that different circumferences of the tire cause driveline wind-up, and therefore must cause driveline damage. Therefore, all tires must be replaced at the same time...which happens to be a great scource of income to those who follow that theory! However, that statement is taken out of context by looking at the extreme side of the story. On every car (2WD, AWD, 4WD) the tires are not exactly equally tall, anyways. Equal tire pressure on all four tires will give you a more compressed tire on the axle with more load on it. That can be temporary, like under hard braking or cornering, or it is all the time due to static weight distribution. Furthermore, people don't check their tire pressure on a regular basis, and their tires won't be equally inflated, meaning one or more tires will have a smaller rolling diameter than the other one. Cars are also not always travelling in a straight line. The only reason why vehicles have differentials is to allow for different wheels speeds as required when travelling through a curve. Therefore a difference in wheel speed is a constant occurence for the drivetrain of the vehicle. It is for that reason that manufacturers are allowing to replace only one tire as long as its difference in wear is within reason to the other three. The previously mentioned 2 to 4/32nds are quite common. Of course the idea is to replace with exactly the same tire, since tire height differs somewhat from model to model. It is also logical that they expect a tire matching the rest of the set, since different model tires also change the handling of the vehicle. So what is happening with one tire being a litlle bit taller (newer) that the other three? - on a 4WD: when mounted on the non-driven axle, just a minor amount of walking of the side and spider gears. If your differential has oil in it, then you won't hurt anythng at all, since most axle disconnect systems do exactly that, anyways. - on a AWD: part-time AWD see above. Full-time AWD: the speed difference is neglegible to the axle differential, and is reduced by half before it goes to the center differential. Small differences in speed between the axle shafts or the two drive shafts do not trigger any limited slip or locking devices, because small differences are happening constantly while the vehicle is being driven. No damage will occur. - on a 4WD in 4WD, or a part-time AWD in 4WD: those transfer case settings are only to be used in low-traction scenarios. In those conditions it is extremely common that one wheel will spin faster the the rest. Because of the conditions the vehicle is travelling in, driveline wind-up and consequent damages are not an issue at all. Spinning one tire too fast because of heavy throttle is causing the most damage in those situations. Different tire diameters play no role in low traction environments. - on an AWD in AWD mode in low traction conditions: axle or centre differential may add the wheel speed difference to the occuring amount of tire slip, and may activate center or axle locks slightly earlier than it would otherwise. Since the system is made to do this, and the vehicle is on a surface where driveline wind-up is not an issue, no damages occur. The same holds true for electronic differential brake lock...the chances that the EBL will come on are next to nil, since some speed differential is normal. In conclusion: Replacing all four tires is always the best option, since you "refresh" your ride, and you will continue to have an equal replacement interval on all four tires. If only two are an otion, put the new ones on the same axle. Replacing only one? Make sure its rolling diameter matches as closely to the rest as possible, and try to get the same tire for consistancy in sizing and handling.
  6. @tatawaki: I did not spread any misinformation. While the fire was contained and extinguished within "a few minutes", the vehicle kept on starting on fire again. This is very typical in EVs which have a large Li-Ion battery with many seperate cells, each setting another one one fire. Saying that the fire was out and they only kept one hose running is like saying that they saved a drowing swimmer, but left him in the lake. Flare-ups are considered part of a fire, especially on EVs, and the fire is not out until there are no flare-ups anymore. Therefore the statement that the fire took four hours to contain is absolutely and factually correct. @T3SLA: It is futile to argue about a fire being less likely in an EV (remember, there are other BEVs and HEVs besides Tesla). The NFPA and DOT themselves admit that the date is somewhat unreliable for numerous reasons. But the point here is not whether EVs burn more often. It is all about the ability to contain the fire. Race tracks by design have to look after the safety of drivers, staff and spectators. More cars roll over on public highways than on race tracks, yet most motorsport classes require a roll cage. With the same train of thoughts, organizers want to stay clear of a problem they are ill-equipped to handle. Let's re-read Fire-Chief Buck's own statement: By the time even the smallest embers were finally out, many hours after the crash, somewhere between 25,000 and 30,000 gallons were used, Buck said. This was only possible because the incident happened in a residential area with a hydrant nearby. Had the crash happened on a highway, his department’s trucks, which carry between 500 and 1000 gallons, would not have been able to keep on lightly soaking the car for that much time. And the fire would have continued until all the energy was depleted from the battery. And that is what WSCC would face on either of their competition locations.
  7. I have a pretty good understanding of the Time Attack Classification, and I am also willing to help anybody to get their car in the right class. Two things to remember: 1) If you don't tell me all the modifications you have done, I can't help you to classify properrly. That means I show you your class based on the info I have...there is no guarantee that it is right if you give me the wrong information to start with! 2) I have zero tolerance for people trying to cheat by intentionally giving wrong information about their car. We are at a clubsport level, and you won't make it into the big league by lying to the people you are racing against on the weekend. This means I will not help you to cheat! Anybody who has questions regarding the classification of their car, feel free to contact me.
  8. My question regarding 4.1.3: What is a production car? I understand that the Honda Civic, the Subaru WRX and the BMW 325i are all production cars. But what about an Ariel Atom or a KTM X-Bow? Not that I will be coming around with one of those anytime soon, but are they production cars? They are built in a factory in small numbers and come with optional fenders, so they are not open-wheel cars... And that leads us to Kit Cars, such as a Factory Five, or Goblin or others...home-built sort of implies that it is not a production car, but where do we draw the line? Is Chris' car forbidden in Time Attack, because it was never built like that from any factory on, with its turbo added in a kit car? Inquiring minds want to know...
  9. You are correct, the start/finish line is only about 30m down the straight from corner 9. But that line is also where you get the green flag at the start of the race, and the checkered flag at the end of a competitive event. During non-competition events there is really no Start and no Finish line, as there is no timing. Therefore it is sufficient to utilize the worker at corner 1 to control start and finish of a session. During competition you will see an additional flag person right at the Start/Finish line.
  10. That was not a misprint. Typically, in amateur motorsport electric cars are not allowed due to the battery they utilize to operate the car. While NiNH batteries are already a major safety concern, the Li-Ion batteries (and derivatives) that modern BEVs and PHEVs utilize are a real problem. After any major mishap the rescue personnel does not only have to deal with lethal electricity, but there is a real danger of fire. And we are not talking a fire like we see because engine oil dripped onto an exhaust manifold and ignited. We are talking a seriously hot, ongoing fire that is nearly impossible to extinct. Google the incident that happened in Texas about 10 days ago, when the fire department dowsed a Tesla for four hours, pouring more than 100000 liters (!!!) over the car before they could extinguish the battery fire...unfortunately, during all of those four hours there were two people in the car. Most amateur race tracks do not have the capacity to deal with such a tarmac-melting issue - these kind of fires require a full-blown, well equipped fire department to deal with. And that is the reason why electric cars are not allowed; it is for the safety of everybody.
  11. I am just stirring the pot a little bit here... Does anybody know whether it was actually the brake fluid that burnt? Brake fluid needs extreme high temperatures to burn...temperatures brakes don't ever reach during 15 min lapping sessions. How many thousands of cars have done faster laps in hotter conditions without inflaming their brake fluid, regardless of the wheel type? Furthermore, to have a fire you need oxygen - how did the brake fluid start on fire if it was contained in its system? Did you run metal to metal? Even then you would have to be noticing your reduced brake performance and {hopefully} not keep driving... Do you have dragging brakes? Or was it the grease in your wheel bearing that started to burn...possibly because your wheel bearing was failing? Or maybe your CV shaft boot is open and managed to get grease onto your hot brakes? Something in that story doesn't add up. And just putting in Hawk -70 pads won't solve that problem...
  12. we could never do it without you guys and gals....Thank You!
  13. I am sitting here, processing the past weekend in my head. My involvement into this event started when Scott asked me whether I would take the position of HPDE Director, as help was needed. Accepting it, I had no clue what was awaiting me... I was paired with two masters in their field, and my position was almost that of a puppet - and I say this in the most complimenting sense. Darin and Jordan know what they are doing, and I was priviledged to experience how much planning, work and effort goes into making this event happen...especially during CoVid19! And there were so many more people involved! Our Instructors did a great job adapting to the new lead-follow concept, and as the direct and immediate contact to the students they did an outstanding job not just teaching, but also representing our club. However, I have been in the military long enough to know that a General and his Comissioned Officers will never win a battle unless the rest of the battalion wants to win. It takes many more people to do the dirty work than it takes to annouce the win! I therefore want to say a cordial "Thank You" to all the people who might have not gotten as much glory as they diserve... the people who did all the car wrangling to ensure the instructors had their own group bunched up together every time... the corner workers, who are always taken as a given, no matter how cold the wind, always cheering for our students... the Sarahs, who patiently work the gate first thing in the morning, yet never get acknowledged for the hours they spend at their post...the Mias, who single-handedly take over the lunch arrangements, and whose decisions are not challenged because they just make sense...the Brads who just miracously show up wherever work needs to be done...the Llews and Brians who always are reliable there at their post..the Jens who always have everything under control, yet most participants never know who they are... the Olgas driving 700km in one day just to be there to help....the Als hanging around to let the tent company in on Monday... I can keep going, but you know who you are! Names don't mean anything, the commitment is what counts! Today in the late afternoon, after every participant had left, I noticed that air traffic seemed to have slowed down. I suddenly realized how special GMP is, being able to see a Honda Fit doing its best to impress, while 600hp cars are hurtling down the main straight and water bombers are taking off, and the occational helicopter or Private Air Plane is landing. Later on, when all students had left, Jay hopped into the back of my truck, and we collected the pylons that were left on the track. And he mentioned how great of a club this is, having so many great people in it. He is right...Thank you to all of you!
  14. Rusoman, I don't think anybody can tell you how hot your brakes will get during Autoslalom. The temperature completely depends on ambient temperature, weather (including rain), track layout, the weight of your car and your agressivness. Since you need your car for everyday driving in traffic, and there is no guarantee that careful driving prevents you from having to demand shortest stopping distance based on an emergency, I would suggest that you do what most people do: buy a street/track pad. And then watch how it meets your needs. City driving requires different pads than Autoslalom. And track driving often needs something different again. Racing is a lot of trial and error. Put some pads in, and measure your brake temperatures with a digital thermometer. You will find your answers that way.
  15. I am selling my Kar Kaddy car dolly that I have been using for the past two seasons. This is not a home-built unit, but manufactured to do its one job...hauling cars behind the towing rig. It has a 2" ball hitch and a flat four connector. It also features caster steering for great tracking behind the tow vehicle, and integrated ramps with a tilting mechanism for easy loading and unloading. LED marker lights, new tail lights and tires in great shape make this dolly safe and immediately usable. The folding license plate bracket with its new light can be folded down and facilitates the transport of very wide or low cars. With tire straps, adjustable ratchets and safety chains your car will be securely fastened to the dolly, while a recently updated trailer hitch and safety chains ensure a secure connection to the tow vehicle. This tow dolly allows for the vast majority of the towed vehicle's weight to rest on the dolly - there is maybe 50-80 lbs of tongue weight on your tow vehicle (with a car on the dolly). Not only does this allow a single person to unhook and connect the loaded dolly by himself, but that also means that this dolly with a car on it can be pulled by a car that does not have a very stout rear suspension. Also perfect to hook up behind your RV, to take your car with you to the sunny South! Looking for a rather firm $1000...I can bring the dolly to this weekend's HPDE if someone is seriously interested.
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