conebasher Posted November 27, 2010 Author Share Posted November 27, 2010 I am sorry to tell you this but you will be remaking the rockers again before you will be satisfied. The way you currently have them as the suspension compresses it will gradually become a falling rate linkage. You can fix this 2 ways or use a combination of both. You can shorten the pushrod and make it so the rocker never moves to that situation or leave the pushrod alone and reduce the rocker angle to less than 90 degrees. Actually a third option also exists' date=' you could drop the inboard mounting point also. Bonus on all of this is that with steel rockers you are not out anything other than your time. ( steel is still reasonably cheap).I am sorry that my first post on your thread is a bit to the negative . I have been following the build and overall I am very impressed. As a builder of wierd stuff myself input is appreciated but not allways heeded.[/quote']The rate of change is very small over the short 2" of compression travel because the distance from the pivot to the attachment point is 4". I could reduce this even further by lengthening the rocker arms in both directions but looking at similar suspension designs on Formula cars, my rockers are going to be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 I re-made the transmission tunnel out of aluminum: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 I ran into a problem with the part that goes over the bellhousing because it is a complex curve. Fortunately, when we replaced all the lights in our building, I saved the beautiful aluminum housings from the sodium lights because it was exactly the curve I needed-spooky Here's a housing:Then I cut out the piece I needed:And here it is installed-perfect!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast_Toys Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 I ran into a problem with the part that goes over the bellhousing because it is a complex curve. Fortunately' date=' when we replaced all the lights in our building, I saved the beautiful aluminum housings from the sodium lights because it was exactly the curve I needed-spooky Here's a housing: [/quote']That's good karma! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Haha, that's awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 1, 2010 Author Share Posted December 1, 2010 I had to split my rear shelf into 3 pieces so I could run a hose from the fuel filler to the fuel cell, and build a curved tube to get around the roll bar. I riveted bent strips of aluminum along the center section to stiffen it and will probably use dzus fasteners to hold the side pieces on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 3, 2010 Author Share Posted December 3, 2010 I noticed that the bracket holding the rocker arm was flexing:So I added a bracket: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 Some parts arrived today, a really small driveshaft and lightweight front calipers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 Old front caliper and pads- 11lbs 14ozWilwood caliper and pads-4lbs 2ozBolted on: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotiguy Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Mark , please quit screwing around and taking soo LONG on this project. ;0I have another on for You to "fit" together, one on these.......http://www.shorey.net/Auto/British/Lotus/1965%20Lotus%20Cortina%20-%20frontR.jpgYou can install the body over a Formula Car chassis for Me....Please:)I promise to make it an E-MOD car just to "kick it" Old School British with You. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 http://www.shorey.net/Auto/British/Lotus/1965%20Lotus%20Cortina%20-%20frontR.jpgYou can install the body over a Formula Car chassis for Me....Please:)I promise to make it an E-MOD car just to "kick it" Old School British with You.That looks like a fairly do-able project-bring me a Formula car chassis and Ford Cortina and I'll see what I can do. I had no intention of getting the MGB driving for next season but it sure is looking like a good possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talon_Claudio Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Old front caliper and pads- 11lbs 14ozWilwood caliper and pads-4lbs 2oz7+ lbs per corner is awesome. Have you looked at 2pc aluminum hat rotors (the one in the picture looks like all steel)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 7+ lbs per corner is awesome. Have you looked at 2pc aluminum hat rotors (the one in the picture looks like all steel)?Yes, they are so expensive that I can spend that money elsewhere and gain more performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 Upon the suggestion of others, I started a blog for the project which contains more details and pictures than this thread, and that's where most of my efforts will go from now on. And since some have already been contributing parts and money, I added a donate button for anybody who wants to see this project completed in time for 2011. I will remember contributors when it comes to ridealongs or co-drives http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spraspire Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 Better strap some weight to those calipers or they'll float away! Looks really good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRDTurko Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com/Good way to inpire people to donate... hmm how much do i have in my wallet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paceman Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Rotor machiningSaw on your blog you removed some meat from the rotors, for example on a cast rotor 12"od by 8" id, with .15" removed from both sides you save almost 5 pounds per rotor. Thats gotta help with acceleration/stopping and rotational mass. Nice job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 Saw on your blog you removed some meat from the rotors' date=' for example on a cast rotor 12"od by 8" id, with .15" removed from both sides you save almost 5 pounds per rotor. Thats gotta help with acceleration/stopping and rotational mass. Nice job.[/quote']I regret not getting the before and after weight but I tried and my kitchen scale went into overload with the weight of one rotor. I will have to get a higher capacity digital scale to get the weights of things. A bathroom scale is fine for the bigger stuff but they are not accurate for the smaller stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 I moved the shifter forward to put it in line with the steering wheel:And built a belt tensioner:And added ventilated discs. The unventilated one on the bottom, ventilated on top. I had several lbs machined off the discs before putting them on.Lots more detail and pictures on my blog http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyno Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 Hey Mark,How did the clutch and flywheel work out? I predict you will be out for the first race in the new season. You moving along really well, keep it up!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 12, 2010 Author Share Posted December 12, 2010 Hey Mark' date='How did the clutch and flywheel work out? I predict you will be out for the first race in the new season. You moving along really well, keep it up!![/quote']No, the flywheel wasn't even close and the new flywheel I had to get from Fidanza is drilled for a 10.5" GM pressure plate and Ford disc (try ordering a GM pressure plate and Ford disc to match-nothing but trouble). Your clutch and flywheel are 11". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 My test front tires are on. The sticker says 23x9.5-15 but they seem a lot wider than 9.5 inches:Also added a kill switch just in front of the windshield and changed the battery location in order to shorten the cables: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 Started with the fuel system by mounting the fuel pump as low and close to the fuel cell as possible:Fidanza aluminum flywheel is on. It can use a Jag pressure plate or GM, I chose a GM plate from Ram, which raised some eyebrows because I am using a Spec clutch for a Ford. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 22, 2010 Author Share Posted December 22, 2010 Took a bunch of mandrel bent tube I got from www.fasttoys.net and welded it all up into collectors and side pipes. Here's the drivers side collector:Passenger side collector:Flowing into a 2.5" Dynomax bullet muffler:More detail on my blog http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 22, 2010 Author Share Posted December 22, 2010 Built a pod for the gauges and switches out of aluminum. I wanted it to be quickly removeable so I could access the back of the switches and gauges so it's held on by wingnuts and can be opened up in no time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 Some recent pics of the engine in the car: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRDTurko Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 that looks killer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 25, 2010 Author Share Posted December 25, 2010 Video of the car running, I briefly give it some rpms and you can hear that unique V12 sound: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conebasher Posted December 25, 2010 Author Share Posted December 25, 2010 For reference, here is what the car should sound like when tuned (wait for the in-car cam when the announcer shuts up): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 The second vid wouldn't load for me, but your motor sounds awesome even untuned, Mark. Could become a crowd favorite at Nationals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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