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Brake Proportioning Valve Advice


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I am looking for advice on brake bias portioning valve. On our 1972 Celica Tony and I are looking to install a brake portioning valve. We are wondering if It is better to mount it on the trans tunnel behind the shifter or in the engine bay on the fire wall. Should it be adjustable on the fly or just set it up in testing and call it good? Also lever or dial style?

 

Thanks

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Dial gives you more fine control from what I read. 
if it’s in the cabin you can make live adjustments based on track conditions, tires, etc but generally it’s a set and forget item. I’d make it somewhere in the cabin accessible but not in a place easily messed with or accidentally disturbed. 
I saw one install where they had a cover over it in the bottom of the dash console. 
 

I don’t track day so what do I know though....

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1 hour ago, MRS Joe said:

Dial gives you more fine control from what I read. 
if it’s in the cabin you can make live adjustments based on track conditions, tires, etc but generally it’s a set and forget item. I’d make it somewhere in the cabin accessible but not in a place easily messed with or accidentally disturbed. 
I saw one install where they had a cover over it in the bottom of the dash console. 
 

I don’t track day so what do I know though....

Thanks Joe, appreciate the input.

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  • 1 month later...

I use the lever type. I have it in the car within reach while strapped in.
The Lever provides a visual reference where the dial does not, I have it set up so the lever points more to where I need it. IE: if it’s pointed straight to the front, it’s all front braking. Further, it has 6 positions that you can quickly and easily set, from these detents, you may or may not be able to tell the difference in “one click” but you will in 2, in 5 years on on-track use, I have never found a need for further refinement between those detents.  
I have definitely changed brake pads to further aid brake balance (when the valve isn’t enough) and also calipers and rotor diameter, but the fine tuning has never been more than a couple clicks on the lever - and it’s a dynamic situation, so you want it at the drivers reach. You don’t want to be on your 3rd or 4th lap and have to end the session, pull in and make the change when you can do it on the fly and know the immediate result. 
If you change tires, brake pads, shocks, springs, sway bars - these all have an effect on how the car stops. I have done all these mods and have had to dial the rears out completely and bring them back in 80%. 
ive also ran the valve with and without the OEM prop valve, which will likely yield different results with different vehicles.

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