BradlyW

Thanks for the kind words Dason. Yes I work at Connelly Signs doing the graphic design/printing. Most of our print material is 54" wide.

This link looks like it still works. Pretty sure it's the one I used https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AFksPxns16Q-BS8&cid=8DCBB36CCA2EE12E&id=8DCBB36CCA2EE12E!6065&parId=8DCBB36CCA2EE12E!4960&action=locate

Just finished my first lapping event in a couple years so seems like a good time to class my car. 2005 Subaru Legacy GT sedan. T1 Base Class 1 pip - Catless uppipe (Wasn't sure as this is mentioned in .2 and .3). Car originally has a cat in the uppipe. I replaced with a catless one. 1 pip - High flow catted downpipe 1 pip - IAG competition Air Oil Separator (Not sure about this one, but it replaces the PCV) 3 pips - Aftermarket tune using accessport 6 pips - Coilovers 1.5 pips - Non OEM wheel alignment 1 pip - Bump steer correction kit (tie rods + ball joints) Total of 14.5 pips

Normal things to bring to track: brake fluid, oil, coolant. Normal things to bring to DirtX: hammer, wire, pry bar, tape, tow strap (I've had to use all of these). But quite possibly the most fun you can have in a car.

This is exactly why I was asking. I found even in my Legacy the Camaro's and proper fast cars come up behind me real fast. With my 240 it would be like I was sitting on the track in park lol. Curious to see what I can do with it out on track. Definitely be a change of pace from my Legacy I'm sure.

I like it, though going to take advantage of the new Saturday hot laps to avoid more time off

So turned my old DirtX car (formerly known as Silicone Sally), into a somewhat prepared AutoX/track car. I want to run it at GMP but it's proper slow. 114 (hopeful) hp in a 2900 lb box, 0-60 eventually kind of thing. I am running fresh sticky tires (Falken RT660) + suspension mods, so hoping I can keep my momentum through corners a bit. My main question is am I better to be doing hot lapping or time attack (have my license since the winter course)? I don't want to be creating traffic/holding people back.

Bradly Wohlgemuth, Member #7243 renewing #37

Project Update. Went a very different direction. Instead of mucking about trying to find good street winter tires went to more aggressive studs. Used Endurance II ice racing screws + washers/nylon nuts on the inside, x70 per tire, in a set of old all season I had on Volvo wheels. After one weekend was very happy with this route, tons of grip, great car control, but can still get the car sideways when you want to. The biggest limited factor at this point was the open diff. My buddy noted that since the car uses a Dana 30 rear axle we could use a Spartan locker for a Jeep and be way cheaper then a LSD (but more drivable then welded). Got that put in and ran at Winnipeg Beach. Pretty quickly found that the weight over the rear axle was entirely unneeded, and actually made the handling worse as the car would spin out easier. So took all the weight out of the back and now feel like the setup is dialed quite well for ice drift antics. Can still get it to spin out if I my throttle inputs are off but seat time will fix that I'm sure.

Does anybody have any 15" ice racing tires? Cut, bolted, screwed, open to options. I'm just looking for something to put on my Volvo for IceX so they don't need to be perfect. Was thinking maybe someone's previous season racing tires?

So with the awesome weekend over, I just wanted to find out how those of us who completed the school can apply for a time attack license?

@aaronstumpf Cool, I sent you a DM

Oh that's a good point, also nothing as distracting as hearing something clunk around when your foot is on the floor. The spare tire well is nice and low above the axle so that should be a perfect place to bolt in some weights.

Picked myself up a RWD beater (Volvo 740 Turbo) I'm gonna use for IceX/DirtX. Just looking at doing some work to make it a bit better for the ice. Thinking of pulling a much weight as I can, some of the interior, AC, trunk liner, etc etc. Question is do you pull all the weight out and then put it back in over the rear axle? I'm thinking of putting steel weight in the spare tire well which is beneath the trunk and pretty much over the rear axle. Figure I might experiment with different amounts of weight while I'm out Besides that I'm thinking welded diff, studded winters, and a bucket seat.

Thanks for the confirmation! Appreciate it