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  1. Today
  2. Hey! Thanks to everyone that PM'd me. All is sorted now! We ended up buying a Tent in the end as we will need one if people come out to visit next year too!
  3. Last week
  4. I think the first point is probably true, but if you tend to be to low on the RPM's (like I am) it seems to help. The second point doesn't seem to be a problem. Although I'm such a rookie maybe I've got a lot to learn about finesse. .
  5. Hasn't been my experience. Gas mileage is not noticeably different on my Solstice.
  6. Throwing this up here to see if there's any interest before I make a serious attempt to sell. I'd like to see it go to a good home if possible and people here fit that description. The car has been parked since April 2018 but gets started every time I take my Prelude out of the garage. It lives on a battery tender. 2004 Sentra SE-R Spec V with 237,8xx kms. -Engine is from a 2003 Altima V6 with unknown mileage. Engine has been in the car since 223k and the timing chain, guides, and tensioner were all replaced with OEM Nissan parts at the time of the swap. The car is running on a 2003 Altima ECU and the swap is not codeless....it will set EVAP codes in the summer as the '04 Sentra has a newer style of evap system than the 03 Altima. It runs without codes all winter as the evap monitors don't run when it's cold out. The solution is either a newer VQ35 ECU/engine harness or backdate the fuel tank and evap system to 01-02 Sentra stuff. I haven't bothered. Engine mounts I fabricated myself and are made from Delrin so there is some vibration. -Transmission is the factory Sentra Spec V gearset inside a casing from a 2004-2006 Maxima, so it's a 6 speed with the factory helical LSD. Clearances were measured and new shims used to set it up correctly. -fully functional A/C, power steering, cruise control, and all gauges work including the tach. This was my daily driver for a couple years. -It made 234whp and 234wtq at the Speedfactor dyno. -The car weights 2923lbs with just over 3/4 tank of fuel indicated. -Power modifications are limited to ebay header (required to fit the chassis), a 2.5" exhaust system, a homemade 3" cold air intake, and bumping the base timing 2deg in the factory computer. The car has an aftermarket aluminum radiator with slim fans and will happily idle in traffic with the A/C cranked without issue. I put in the Altima fuel pump at the time of the swap. -aftermarket heated seats installed by myself. Work great, will burn your butt off. -Compustar 2 way remote start system, although I only have a 1 way remote as the 2 way died. -Pioneer bluetooth/aux mechless head unit, and the factory Rockford Fosgate sound system with a sub. Best audio system of all my cars. -comes with like new 205/55/16 Hankook winter tires on 2007-2012 Sentra alloy wheels as well as the factory Spec-V 17" wheels -trailer hitch and 4 pin wiring. Tows a small trailer great! Issues: -engine burns some oil. I always ran Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 and kept it topped up, I forget how much but lets say 1L every 2000kms? -ABS light is on. It wasn't on when I stopped driving the car, so I haven't looked into it. I suspect a bad wheel speed sensor. -Paint is beat. It was an Alberta car and the front end has a lot of rock chips. I replaced the windshield and repainted the roof. The rockers were also bubbling under the side skirts and I ended up welding it all new ones in 2016. I used cheap paint and the side skirts have rubbed through that paint causing some surface rust. Need to be sanded down and re-painted, and the skirts need some rubber trim or something to keep from rubbing the paint -Summer tires are bald. They should be 21545/17s -baseball sized shallow dent on the passenger front fender. Someone at work is an ass. Price: $3500 for a WSCC member as it sits. Can be safetied for more. Pictures from last week. Please keep in mind it's been sitting there for a over a year without being washed: Older photos:
  7. Hi all! So as my 30th Birthday has rolled around (party at our trailer friday) my mum and her friend have come and surprised me by flying in from England! They are coming to Gimli with us for this event... but I need to sort sleep arrangements! Does anybody have or know anyone fairly local to Gimli that has a RV/ trailer tent or at a last ditch a tent (we are due rain so would rather not, but beggars cant be choosers) that we could borrow for beer money or rent for Friday and Saturday night? I know theres plenty of places in Winipeg that we can rent from, but with George towing the truck and my car not having a hitch he would have to run anything back before coming back to load the trailer up. What with a 10 hour journey home already I'd rather not have him add another 4 hours round trip to that... See you all at the weekend! Kimmie!
  8. I loved DTC-60s at Gimli on my STI. They wore cartoonishly-fast in street and autocross driving. Felt great, but my gold wheels were black in one autocross and 1/3rd of the pad was gone. They NEED heat.
  9. If only there were some kind of lever that you could use adjust throttle opening in real time while you're driving... Maybe some kind of linkage and a pedal just to the right of the brake... I HATE the 'Sports Throttle' feature in some BMWs. Yay, 80% throttle opening at 30% pedal movement. Only want 30% throttle to keep tires from spinning while exiting a corner? Sorry, you can't do that. Now, if the throttle can become a device to request a given torque level in a car with a big laggy turbo? Sign me up! No more mashing it early and then lifting off as boost builds!
  10. Be sure to check out the upcoming June 22 and 23rd triple events schedule! They are now open for registration if you are wondering. Click here to be redirected to the registration links
  11. Spring booster = huge increase in fuel consumption (allegedly). I don't have one myself, but from everything I've read (for BMWs at least), you eat fuel like crazy since the car is constantly revving so high, from the illusion of it being faster under your right foot.
  12. I hated the throttle response in my old WRX. It seemed to be 100% in the first 60% with NO parameter adjustment built in.
  13. EBC yellows Most aggressive pad you can get without going to a full race pad, and have good street manners, yet still take the heat of track days. What my RX8 will get once the hawk HPS are done. Hawk Blues are great but your neighbors will hear you coming down the block with the noise!
  14. Two thoughts; Wouldn’t your muscle memory just learn that 85% down gives you 100% and just leave you with essentially a shorter pedal. Since the pedal itself is less sensitive wouldn't it be harder to “finesse” the pedal and get precisely the amount of throttle you need for a given situation.
  15. Some good information here... I do realize that I forgot to mention the usage of the car. The RX-8 was bought for the sole purpose of racing; the only street driving I do is to and from the event. So everyday usage concerns including noise and cold performance do not matter to me. I might do the odd Autoslalom, but the vast majority of the quick driving will be done at GMP
  16. For a dual purpose car, you can use a dual purpose pad. Hawk HPS is a decent one. But keep in mind this type of pad is meant for mostly street use and occasional track use. I only have experience with Hawk pads so I can’t speak to Pagid, Carbotech, or Porterfield. Hawk Blues are golden, but do tend to be hard on rotors. The DTC-70 pads are less aggressive on the rotors and wear longer. I know a guy that uses them on the street no problem. I will probably use the DTC-70 next. If your car is more track use than street use, consider more a race pad. The advantages are consistency and confidence. I’ve over-baked pads and lost pedal during a race, that is less likely with a proper race pad. I get mine at Classic Motorworks. Dyrk can get you the right parts. For what it’s worth, the DTC-60 is a good rear pad when used with the 70 up front, but that’s for 3000lb cars.
  17. I think pad life is dependent on the compound, weight of the vehicle (your RX-8 sits at around 2800-3000lbs), and how hard you are on the brakes. If your pads are not designed for high temps you I would expect them to wear a lot quicker than a dedicated track pad. Hawk offers a variety of pads from daily, street and light duty track, and dedicated track pads which range in heat temperatures. Below is a chart that shows their line up and respective heat ranges. I've attended the same events as you and have not noticed excessive amount of brake pad wear. My car is roughly 500lbs lighter and I would say I am pretty hard on the brakes, especially going into turn 1. I run the Hawk DTC-60s (ordered the DTC-30s but due to quality control issues at the plant was sent DTC-60s) and cheapo blank rotors I got off RockAuto. I swap front pads and rotors at every event as the DTC-60s do not have much bite until they are warmed up and the guys at Hawk recommended having dedicated rotors so I didn't have to keep bedding in the DTC-60s. My daily and autocross pads are Hawk HPS but I don't think they would last very long on track, not to mention the performance wouldn't be anywhere near that of the DTC-60s. Dedicated track pads do have a higher cost but I think it's worth it for the performance. You can order them from Speed Factor Racing, if you want something local, or online. I believe I picked mine up from Teknotik along with some ATE Type 200 brake fluid. If you are looking to upgrade your pads to something more performance oriented, you can look at the above graph and find what pad/temperatures work best for your application. If you want a pad that is a good dual purpose pad that can be used on the street and the track you can look at pads such as the HP+, Blues, or DTC-30s. They may produce more noise and dust than your average pad however.
  18. What car do you drive? Do you plan on using these pads on the street as well?
  19. I started at the first test & tune day with brand-new (high quality) brake pads. After the HPDE and the last TA event they now are maybe 50%, and I am certain that after the next TA weekend they are not worth keeping anymore. Obviously brake pads wear rather rapidly during TA and hot-laps events. (Some people say I should brake less - I tried that in turn 1 and that didn't work out well at all...) My car has rather large brakes for its weight and power; so far I have not experienced any fading or inability to lock up my tires. So here is my question for all the experienced drivers here: Does it make sense to upgrade to more race-oriented brake pads such as Hawk Blue? What are the advantages? And where do you buy high-performance pads? I do realize there is a premium to pay for a purpose-built race pad in terms of purchase price, but I am also assuming that those pads are much harder on the brake rotors. In your opinion, is it worth to switch?
  20. Earlier
  21. Reviving an old thread.. thanks @Ianfromduff for the download link, takes a bit to get a hang of not a real steering wheel! Lots of fun either way
  22. I agree with @conebasher course #3 and #1 > #2. Some very sub par runs, very worn tires from the Level 1 School and the car kept popping out of gear Side note - Does anyone have 195-50-15, 185-55-15, ect. tires for sale?
  23. Hawk 9012 Blue; HB111 E .610 FRONT Only ran 2 track days on them, 1 of them was in the wet, so they have lots of life in them. Bedded in to the letter of Hawks procedure. They are significantly better than the best parts store pads for track use - car is not street driven. Paid $325 all-in. $150. D412. Fits: 1988-96 Corvette (including 1990-95 ZR-1) 1994-2004 Mustang Cobra / Bullit 1996-97 Aston Martin Vantage / DB7 The 1LE caliper was also optional equipment on 1989-92 Camaro and Firebird. Also fits Baer A-Sedan, "Serious Street," "Sport," and "Track" brake kits. Ferro-Carbon is a unique, high-tech family of friction materials developed and manufactured by Hawk Brake for the racing community. Hawk Pads do not require an extensive "bedding-in" procedure. Keep in mind however, that all disc brake pads require a short period of bedding-in before being used to the maximum of their potential.
  24. Roland Hufgard - I would like to keep the 328 I use for TA. Thanks
  25. I had a smokie dog and it was terrible. The bun was dry and the smokie was either overcooked or just poor quality. The course had some interesting elements and I liked it better than the event #2's course but not as much as event #1's course. Corey and I are going to be the fastest cars out there but even we didn't get up to very high speeds. My top speed was probably only 90 km/h. Check out how close I get to a wall of cones in this video
  26. I bought a new Conquer open face racing helmet in size XL. I used it for one autox event. It’s a touch too big for my noggin so I’ll pass on the deal if it someone wants it. It has a SA2015 rating which means it’s legal for Roll cage equipped cars and street cars at the track. I want to get out of it what I paid which is a great deal. $135.
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