Gimli videos: May 4-5-6 Hotlaps + School

[conebasher]

My first drive in the Panther on Friday:

Briget's 3rd drive:

Drive by:

Drive by:

[Vapour Trails]

It's because of brake fade and wear that you will probably never see me on the Gimli road course again.My brakes lasted 2 laps before they faded to scary proportions. This was on a cool and rainy day, not pushing hard my any measure.I know if I upgraded to GT500 Brembos (which is super easy) the only difference would be it would take 4 laps instead of 2 to boil the brake fluid.Best car to have for Gimli is something light and small with moderate power. You'll have much more fun with less worry and expense. Power just gives you a shitload of expensive problems.

[Brian_Earl_Spilner]

My brakes lasted 2 laps before they faded to scary proportions.

That doesn't seem right. There have been lots of Mustangs at Solo over the years with stock-sized brakes that have run all day.Are you sure you don't have some bigger underlying issue? Have you bled your brakes before going to Gimli?

[JohnnyV]

In regards to s2000 brake ducts, maybe this helps:He wasn't allowed to cut his bumper at all for brake ducts so that's what he did. Maybe you can fab something to block the vents when you're autoxing, and open them when you're at gimli?@ vapour trails: i'd suspect brake fluid. I had some problems on my civic when I brought it out there the first time, but I bled the brakes and flushed it with that german motul blue stuff, went back out and there was no issues at all after that.

[JohnnyV]

I have a few photos, but no video. Didn't shoot any until later in the day, so I missed quite a few of your cars http://johnnyracer.ca/home/may-4th-lapping-day/

[Al Marcoux]

Keeping it cheap and fun.My 1990 SI ice racer I drove in the 2011 Road Race season 230 km eng maybe 120 hpA cleanable air filter A used header with cat Used integra center pipe No muffler New factory clutch . Si gear box with ZC 1st through 4th (almost redline 4th at end of straight).Used KYB GR5 .Used stock springs that I cut with grinder and used my index and middle fingers to measure gap between tire and fender lip. (totally butch) I scaled it and found that I was within .5 lbs cross weight (what a fluke). 1810 lbs total with driver.Lexan windows except w/shield.Stock swaybars.Used FV 14" Falken Azenis I used 6 for the season and still have some tread good for rear tires for 2012.Used 14" aluminum rims. Lap times a consistent 1.11 ish Right front upper control arm . I cut out ball joint and moved it in about 3/8 inch and welded into place about 3.5 neg camber with car lowered .(this was the biggest improvement in right front tire wear) I rotated the 2 front tires L to R sat eve so once per w/end verses rotate all 4 tires every 2 races ish ( 3 to 4 times per w/end ) MUCH better now .Brake fluid . Go to Canadian Tire or Part Source and look for Prestone brand Ford DOT3 brake fluid, 550 degree F boiling point and about as cheap as regular brake fluid. ZERO brake fade .I bleed before each event . Many Racers use this fluid in many different clubs Google it.I ran DOT5 silicone once and all I had was a mushy pedal ( I bled and flushed believe me I tried) so FORD 550F is an exellent bang for buck and it works for great for almost any race/track car. I've told many people about this and I never had negative response so far . I've used this for 20 years . It NEVER let me down. I'm sure there's other brake fluids out there that do the same and cost more but why ? This is just my experience . Left upper arm stock . $20 front rotors which I used for the 2011 IR season on stock pads then switched to Hawk blues for the 2011 RR season and then back to stock pads for the 2012 IR season.They have hair line cracks now but new ones for 2012 RR season.Pad remaining on Hawk Blues was 1/8" after 5 hot lap days at 50 laps per,4 race events at approx 100 laps per event includes sat hot laps too so call it 500 laps . Probly had another 50 to 100 laps left but I won't push my luck with that . Still good for one or two hot lap days . Bone stock rear drums and shoes almost no wear .Hawk blues or equivalent is a must for Gimli . If your brake fluid is a year old it's contaminated and will boil . Gimli doesn't have long enough straights to cool the brakes . Air flow to the brakes is important . If you have an air dam you probly need proper vent like the S2K above. An FIA rated seat. Now this car is in ST/U which is more or less an open class compared to IT3. I'm missing too many pieces to put into IT3. But you never know.As a hotlap/racecar this car was great for what it is a POC super cheap and fun and won the ST/U championship in 2011 only because the car finished every single race but one ,and more laps than anyone else, talk about the turtle and the hare me being the turtle with my whole 120 horse vs 180 the comp had. I had Zero chance realisticly to win ST/U or overall but did it more than once. Consistency, Slow in fast out, Keep the shiny side up, Bring it home running, Keep it between the lines/cones, Don't hurl it at the scenery .

[RyanB]

My 1990 SI ice racer had in the 2011 season 230 km eng maybe 120 hpA cleanable air filter A used header with cat Used integra center pipe No muffler New factory clutch . Si gear box with ZC 1st through 4th (almost redline 4th at end of straight).Used KYB GR5 .Used stock springs that I cut with grinder and used my index and middle fingers to measure gap between tire and fender lip. (totally butch) I scaled it and found that I was within .5 lbs cross weight (what a fluke). 1810 lbs total with driver.Lexan windows except w/shield.Stock swaybars.Used FV 14" Falken Azenis I used 6 for the season and still have some tread good for rear tires for 2012.Used 14" aluminum rims Lap times a consistent 1.11 ish Right front upper control arm . I cut out ball joint and moved it in about 3/8 inch and welded into place about 3.5 neg camber with car lowered .(this was the biggest improvement in right front tire wear) I rotated the 2 front tires L to R sat eve so once per w/end verses rotate all 4 tires every 2 races ish ( 3 to 4 times per w/end ) MUCH better now .Left upper arm stock . $20 front rotors which I used for the 2011 IR season on stock pads then switched to Hawk blues for the 2011 RR season and then back to stock pads for the 2012 season.They have hair line cracks now but new ones for 2012 RR season.Bone stock rear drums and shoes almost no wear .An FIA rated seat. Now this car is in ST/U which is more or less an open class compared to IT3 I'm missing to many pieces to put into IT3. But you never know.As a hotlap/racecar this car was great for what it is a POC super cheap and fun and won the ST/U championship in 2011 only because the car finished every single race but one talk about the turtle and the hare me being the turtle with my whole 120 horse vs 180 plus I had Zero chance realisticaly to win STU . Consistency' date='slow in fast out, keep the shiny side up .[/quote']This is why you race a Honda everyone

[Jeff]

Right front upper control arm . I cut out ball joint and moved it in about 3/8 inch and welded into place about 3.5 neg camber with car lowered ....Left upper arm stock .

Too funny! I guess it makes sense when we only have to turn right once per lap.

[ScottMcD]

Hey all' date='I've been going out to the gimli motorsport park for two yrs now to watch the 1/4 mile racing, never even knew a road course existed. My Brother-in-law signed up for the school this past weekend and i drove out in the rain on sunday to check it out. What an awesome time it was, i may skip the 1/4 mile races and come watch you guys instead. I'll be sure to come check it out again at the end of the month. I have 2 86 rx7s, one may just become a road racer.Jeff.[/quote']You might enjoy the view from the corner stations Jeff. It's the best place on the track and we need corner marshals desperately, especially for the Chump Car race in July and the GT Challenge in August. Come out by 9 and look me up if you want to volunteer and I'll get you hooked up.Scott McDonald, Road Race Director (Green Rx7 #14)