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conebasher

Project E-Mod MGB-GT

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I am sorry to tell you this but you will be remaking the rockers again before you will be satisfied. The way you currently have them as the suspension compresses it will gradually become a falling rate linkage. You can fix this 2 ways or use a combination of both. You can shorten the pushrod and make it so the rocker never moves to that situation or leave the pushrod alone and reduce the rocker angle to less than 90 degrees. Actually a third option also exists' date=' you could drop the inboard mounting point also. Bonus on all of this is that with steel rockers you are not out anything other than your time. ( steel is still reasonably cheap).I am sorry that my first post on your thread is a bit to the negative . I have been following the build and overall I am very impressed. As a builder of wierd stuff myself input is appreciated but not allways heeded.[/quote']The rate of change is very small over the short 2" of compression travel because the distance from the pivot to the attachment point is 4". I could reduce this even further by lengthening the rocker arms in both directions but looking at similar suspension designs on Formula cars, my rockers are going to be fine.

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I ran into a problem with the part that goes over the bellhousing because it is a complex curve. Fortunately, when we replaced all the lights in our building, I saved the beautiful aluminum housings from the sodium lights because it was exactly the curve I needed-spooky :) Here's a housing:Posted ImageThen I cut out the piece I needed:Posted ImageAnd here it is installed-perfect!!Posted Image

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I ran into a problem with the part that goes over the bellhousing because it is a complex curve. Fortunately' date=' when we replaced all the lights in our building, I saved the beautiful aluminum housings from the sodium lights because it was exactly the curve I needed-spooky :) Here's a housing: [/quote']That's good karma!

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I had to split my rear shelf into 3 pieces so I could run a hose from the fuel filler to the fuel cell, and build a curved tube to get around the roll bar. I riveted bent strips of aluminum along the center section to stiffen it and will probably use dzus fasteners to hold the side pieces on.Posted Image

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Mark , please quit screwing around and taking soo LONG on this project. ;0I have another on for You to "fit" together, one on these.......http://www.shorey.net/Auto/British/Lotus/1965%20Lotus%20Cortina%20-%20frontR.jpgYou can install the body over a Formula Car chassis for Me....Please:)I promise to make it an E-MOD car just to "kick it" Old School British with You.

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http://www.shorey.net/Auto/British/Lotus/1965%20Lotus%20Cortina%20-%20frontR.jpgYou can install the body over a Formula Car chassis for Me....Please:)I promise to make it an E-MOD car just to "kick it" Old School British with You.

That looks like a fairly do-able project-bring me a Formula car chassis and Ford Cortina and I'll see what I can do. :) I had no intention of getting the MGB driving for next season but it sure is looking like a good possibility.

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Old front caliper and pads- 11lbs 14ozWilwood caliper and pads-4lbs 2oz

7+ lbs per corner is awesome. Have you looked at 2pc aluminum hat rotors (the one in the picture looks like all steel)?

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7+ lbs per corner is awesome. Have you looked at 2pc aluminum hat rotors (the one in the picture looks like all steel)?

Yes, they are so expensive that I can spend that money elsewhere and gain more performance.

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Upon the suggestion of others, I started a blog for the project which contains more details and pictures than this thread, and that's where most of my efforts will go from now on. And since some have already been contributing parts and money, I added a donate button for anybody who wants to see this project completed in time for 2011. I will remember contributors when it comes to ridealongs or co-drives ;)http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com/

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Rotor machiningSaw on your blog you removed some meat from the rotors, for example on a cast rotor 12"od by 8" id, with .15" removed from both sides you save almost 5 pounds per rotor. Thats gotta help with acceleration/stopping and rotational mass. Nice job.

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Saw on your blog you removed some meat from the rotors' date=' for example on a cast rotor 12"od by 8" id, with .15" removed from both sides you save almost 5 pounds per rotor. Thats gotta help with acceleration/stopping and rotational mass. Nice job.[/quote']I regret not getting the before and after weight but I tried and my kitchen scale went into overload with the weight of one rotor. I will have to get a higher capacity digital scale to get the weights of things. A bathroom scale is fine for the bigger stuff but they are not accurate for the smaller stuff.

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I moved the shifter forward to put it in line with the steering wheel:Posted ImageAnd built a belt tensioner:Posted ImageAnd added ventilated discs. The unventilated one on the bottom, ventilated on top. I had several lbs machined off the discs before putting them on.Posted ImageLots more detail and pictures on my blog http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com/

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Hey Mark,How did the clutch and flywheel work out? I predict you will be out for the first race in the new season. You moving along really well, keep it up!!

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Hey Mark' date='How did the clutch and flywheel work out? I predict you will be out for the first race in the new season. You moving along really well, keep it up!![/quote']No, the flywheel wasn't even close and the new flywheel I had to get from Fidanza is drilled for a 10.5" GM pressure plate and Ford disc (try ordering a GM pressure plate and Ford disc to match-nothing but trouble). Your clutch and flywheel are 11".

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My test front tires are on. The sticker says 23x9.5-15 but they seem a lot wider than 9.5 inches:Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImageAlso added a kill switch just in front of the windshield and changed the battery location in order to shorten the cables:Posted Image

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Started with the fuel system by mounting the fuel pump as low and close to the fuel cell as possible:Posted ImageFidanza aluminum flywheel is on. It can use a Jag pressure plate or GM, I chose a GM plate from Ram, which raised some eyebrows because I am using a Spec clutch for a Ford.Posted Image

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Built a pod for the gauges and switches out of aluminum. I wanted it to be quickly removeable so I could access the back of the switches and gauges so it's held on by wingnuts and can be opened up in no time.Posted Image

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For reference, here is what the car should sound like when tuned (wait for the in-car cam when the announcer shuts up):

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The second vid wouldn't load for me, but your motor sounds awesome even untuned, Mark. Could become a crowd favorite at Nationals. :D

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