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conebasher

Project E-Mod MGB-GT

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Mark' date=' there is (was?) a place on McPhillips called PaintFX that could make custom paint for various applications and put it into an aerosol can for you. They might be able to do custom engine paint colours too if you really want it panther pink![/quote']Rondex on Isabel will custom mix spray cans in any colour you like also. Don't know about the hi-heat stuff, but one call and they will tell you.. They have always been the most helpful automotive paint store in town when I'm looking for something. You might still have time to change to pink.

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The whole project has ground to a halt because I am waiting for the flywheel bolts to arrive (there seems to be a worldwide shortage) but I am desperate to do something so I started taking the rust off the nuts/bolts and certain parts. I purchased some Zep Lime and Rust remover and soaked the parts in it for a day. Here is a motor mount before and after. I put only half the mount in the solution so you can see the difference. After eating off the rust, I rinse the part with water then either paint it or spray with WD40 to prevent further corrosion.Posted ImagePosted Image

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Wow, that is impressive, Mark. I think I'll soak my entire car in that stuff... : )

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Finally got the bolts I needed so I bolted the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, bellhousing, transmission and intake manifold on and slid the whole unit into the car. The good news is that there is a ton of extra room in the engine compartment, the bad news is that the Tilton hydraulic release bearing I have will not work, the V12 mounts interfere with the 5.0 oil filter, the headers will have to be modified and the oil pan is a little too close to the ground. I can't do the fabrication work at home so I will have to move the car to the kart track to move this project along.Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

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The car is back at the track, where the adventure began. The first thing I did was put a 2" block under the oil pan and crossmember to simulate the clearance I need at normal ride height. The 5.0 bellhousing is taller and the oil pan is deeper than what was on the V12 so there is some clearance issues with the firewall. I trimmed the firewall and fitted the EFI upper intake manifold, it barely fits. It looks like I will have to mod the frame for the exhaust to fit.Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

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Looks pretty good. It will be nice to hear a screaming V8 out there.

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Now that the headers are flipped around, they dump out right where the frame was. I cut the section out on each side and welded in a new piece at a new angle so the exhaust will clear. Here is the section I had to cut out of the drivers side:Posted ImageAnd after the new piece is welded in. I have to do some final welding up on it.Posted ImageI learned from the V12 that motor mounts sticking into the engine bay make it difficult to remove the engine, so for these ones I ran 2" tubing from the stock mounting holes on the block out to the frame and made them bolt-on.Posted ImageThere is no cushion between the engine and frame, it's essentially solid mounts.Posted Image

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The switch from carbs to EFI required a complete change of the fuel system. I needed to remove the old fuel line, pump and filter and add a new fuel pump, feed line, filter and return line. The new fuel pump:Posted ImageFuel filter bolted to the frame rail. I hope it's not going to get too warm from the side pipes.Posted ImageThe fuel lines run inside the frame rail until just behind the battery where they pop out and go to the fuel rail on the engine:Posted ImagePosted Image

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Nice to see you're still making progress!Is it just the photo' date=' or is the flat bar that's bolted to the motor above actually bending?[/quote']I don't think it's bending but I'll take a closer look at it and reinforce if necessary. I will be suprised if the 1/4" flat bar is bending from the weight but you never know. I am not making as much progress as before because I have to undo so much and the heat slows me down because I'm dripping sweat after a short period.

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Update: Took the Painless wiring harness I bought on E-Bay and began installing it. Everything was going swimmingly until I couldn't find a plug for the ECU. Further investigation revealed that the wiring harness was for a MAP(manifold absolute pressure) engine and I had purchased all the sensors for a MAF (mass airflow)engine. MAF is better so I put the MAP harness back on E-Bay where amazingly it sold within 12 hours and now I have to purchase a harness for a MAF engine.

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I haven't stopped work on the car, I just haven't completed any tasks. I have been working on a few things, here's some pics:Posted ImageIn this picture of the car in action at an autocross, you can see a lot of daylight between the floor and ground. This was a mistake, I built the floor higher than the MGB floor when I didn't need to. So the next picture shows the whole floor cut out, to be remade entirely out of aluminum and a few inches lower.Posted ImagePosted ImageAnd the upper intake is bolted on. I also began installation of the Painless wiring harness.Posted ImageI am also attempting to build fender flares out of aluminum. I think they will look pretty good when all done.

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The construction of the new lowered floor began with the drivers side. I ordered some 1/8" aluminum sheet from Tailor Made and had them bend it for me.Posted ImageThe raw materials.Posted ImageAfter a lot of fitting, trimming, cutting and re-fitting I was able to use threaded rivets to hold the floor to the frame rails.Posted ImageAnd bolt the tunnel to the floor. I still have to fill in the gap at the back of the floor then onto the passenger side.

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I got everything hooked up on the 5.0 V8 and here is the video of the very first time I pushed the start button:

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Got a rumble. As soon as I heard the motor and you mention the firing order being out, I said to myself "its timing", then the video flickered and your back saying it was timing. Got a chuckle from that. Nice to see progress again. How much foot well room will you gain with the floor moving down? Will it make you have to move pedals or make it easier for footwork?

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I worked on the passenger side floor and finished up the drivers side floor this week. For now everything is just riveted together but I will be seem welding the whole thing soon. Here it is without the tunnel bolted on.Posted ImagePosted ImageI needed a new rear transmission mount and the floor feels so strong that I decided to build a steel mount that bolts between the driver and passenger side floors. This is the reason I have decided to weld the floors and add some gussets. When I first bolted the bracket in and let down the bottle jack holding up the tranny, it didn't budge, so I take that as a good sign that the floor can handle the weight. I will still be keeping a close eye on it.Posted ImagePosted Image

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The giant radiator I had for the V12 was so heavily modified that I decided to start fresh with a new, built for a 5.0, aluminum racing radiator. A mistake I made with the other one was that the uprights holding the rad also got in the way of shrouding the radiator. For this one I mounted it lower and farther back for improved weight distribution and I allowed lots of room for shrouding. Here is the passenger side lower mount bolted to the frame:Posted ImageAnd upper passenger side:Posted ImageAnd here you can see there is plenty of room behind the rad for shrouding some fans in:Posted Image

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It turns out that my aluminum floor is not legal for the class because the rear tranny crossmember bolts to it and becomes load bearing, and aluminum is not allowed for load bearing structure. I simply added 1"x2" steel tube between the transmission crossmember and the frame rails and the problem is solved.Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

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I drove the car around the kart track for a few laps, it was too much fun! It feels understeery so I have to give it some welli to get it to rotate but otherwise the handling feels good. It does smoke a lot but I hope to have that problem solved soon. Here is video from 3 different angles:

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Because the floor and side pipes dropped 3 inches, there was an ugly gap between the body and the pipes so today I took some 18 gauge aluminum and filled the gap. I was going to paint it but some have the opinion that it looks good in natural aluminum. It could also be a good place for sponsor stickers.Posted ImagePosted Image

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I dunno....no room for boom tubes now.;)Very nice work. Would stickers get a little warm and maybe peel off?

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I dunno....no room for boom tubes now.;)Very nice work. Would stickers get a little warm and maybe peel off?

Do you mean big mufflers? I can still put bigger ones on if I want. I'm not sure how warm they will get because all the air coming out of the front wheel well flows behind them.

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I like the aluminum look.Decals won't just fall off from heat. They might crisp up and crumble after a few years of heat cycles, but I wouldn't worry about it.

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I like the aluminum look.Decals won't just fall off from heat. They might crisp up and crumble after a few years of heat cycles' date=' but I wouldn't worry about it.[/quote']Should I leave the fenders flares bare aluminum as well? I can't decide what to do with them-black, bare or white.

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I finally built the passenger rear fender flare. I planned on doing front ones as well but am not sold on the flares yet. Do you think I should get rid of them, paint them or leave them and build front ones, too?Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

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Do you think I should get rid of them' date=' paint them or leave them and build front ones, too?QUOTE']Got any pictures that shows the entire side of the car? Hard to see the flow of the lines from the pictures above.

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