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Camber settings for "stock" BRZ/FRS/86 at GMP


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I'm looking to get a bit more exit speed out of corners and reduce the wear on the shoulders of my tires.

Stock power, no aero, stock spring/struts, added front camber plates and rear lower control arms.

Does -2 front and -3 rear sound reasonable to start with?

Still learning, so any advice would be appreciated.

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-2 and -3 are already on the aggressive side. It might be right for Gimli (you may have to experiment a bit), but for street usage it probably will be a bit extreme.

Also keep in mind that with more negative camber you reduce your tires' contact patch on the street when going in a straight (and of course of the tires on the inner radius of a corner). Especially during braking this can have a negative effect.

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what do the sidewalls look like?
How far are you scrubbing?
Have you played with air pressures?

I would say stating that a specific camber degree "will work", isn't really helpful. It depends on many things including tires, brakes, suspension setup and most importantly, driving style. I would recommend getting a set of plates and do small adjustments at the track. As Roland suggested, for double duty street/track, going beyond -2 in the front may not be the best choice.

This won't happen overnight and best to keep a log. that way if you move to the point where you don't like it, you can always go back to what you thought was a good setup.
I am more aggressive on camber/caster settings than some, but i also run lower tire pressures than others too. 

Do you know what your toe settings are on your car? I am assuming stock at this point. You can play with those too to gain better turn-in and rotation.

 

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An SUV decided to realign the front corner of my car, so I guess that's it for the season.

Last alignment was -1 front, -1.5 rear, 0 toe. Wear is entirely on the outer 1/3, managed hot tire pressures to avoid going past the shoulder mark.

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Ouch! I would think that the colour of your car should make it somewhat visible in traffic...you are ok, though?

When you say that wear is entirely on the outer 1/3rd, do you really mean entirely? Or does the rest of the tire wear as well, just not as dramatically? To a certain extend the outer part of the tread will always wear worse, as the tire tries to fold underneath the rim during hard cornering. To avoid that completely, you would have to run very extreme camber, probably to the extend that you can't brake properly anymore...

The maximum factory specs for camber front and rear are -1.3 and -2.4, respectively. That is already quite a bit. I would start with that number, and see how the car behaves. You also can go a bit negative on the toe - negative 0.13 is the factory max. spec (I would probably run -0.05) - , which will place more load onto the inner edge of the tire during braking. In corners, this will scrub the inside edge of the inside tire more, taking some of the pressure off the outside tire. This will not only wear your inner edge more, but also let your car turn in a little bit quicker.

Just like Darin said, you will have to experiment. There is no perfect alignment setting; everything is a compromise. Driving on the straight at high speed requires completely different settings than going around turn 1, and then turn 5 is asking for yet a different setting than turn 1. Be mindful that suspension settings are a curious thing: you can adjust more and more while gaining very little. But when you go just a tad further, you lose everything you gained, and then some more. Keeping track of your progress is important to see when you have reached this tipping point. Problems to look out for is instability on the straight and under breaking, nervousness of the car and the tendency to go off its intended trajectory when you hit a bump (too much toe-out). Braking distances too long and instability over bumps during cornering is usually a sign of too much negative camber.

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