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nopistons

So you want to race on ICE?

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...posting for the ice race director:

 

So you want to race on ICE?

Excellent, let’s get you started…

You will need the following:

a)      A realistic budget

.b)      WSCC Membership – Form (print)

c)       WCMA Ice Race License – MSR (online)

d)      Race Car

e)      Required safety gear

Seems simple right? Well it is, but how about we have a closer look…

If you haven’t already, come check out an event. It’s an excellent opportunity to see how the events are run, what kind of cars are on the track for each class and how they are built. You just might even score a ride!

Now that you have decided that you want to give this a go and get your own set of wheels, you’ll have to decide what wheels you want and which class to run in. Some items to consider:

a.       Does your budget fit the class and ideal car choice?

b.      Is there a car already built and for sale by another racer that fits your taste and budget?

c.       If you’re building your own car do you have the means to do it correctly?

d.      Have you reviewed the pertinent regulations and documents?

                                                               i.      Supplemental Regulations

                                                             ii.      Roll Cage Specifications – WCMA Tech Regs  “Appendix A”

If you’ve answered all of those questions and have decided to move along with building your own, you’ll need to find one to build. Since you’ve read the supplemental regulations, you’ll know what type of car you need to find. Maybe it’s in your own back yard! Or a buddies back yard! MPI auctions are also an excellent source of inexpensive blank canvases that tick the boxes of ice racing. Wherever you locate your ice race machine, make sure it’s the cleanest, least rusty example that you can reasonably find.

Avoid biases when choosing your machine. Choose a car that fits: your budget, the class you intend on racing and a car you can physically live with as a race car. The car should also tick the three boxes of grassroots motorsports: cheap to buy, cheap to maintain and ease of locating parts!

Now that you have your wheels, there are a couple choices you will need to make…

a)      Do you dive with both feet into door to door competition? Or do you take advantage of the test and tune days on the Saturday prior to the race day?

.b)       Do you build your car for Rubber? Studs? Or both?

“a)” is ultimately up to you. Practice makes perfect and utilizing the test and tune days to get a feel for the car and how it drives on ice prior to rushing door to door is always a good idea. You don’t want to try a new move and end up facing into the headlights of another racer!

“b)” comes with a bit of restraint. Many new racers want to dive into the speed, grip and flare of studs but it takes less skill to master! Rubber is where we recommend that new racers start. It’s easier on the car, it’s easier on the pocketbook and definitely builds your skill level! If you intend to one day go to studs, then what mods you do to your car will change. For example, the differential in your transmission has 3 options: open, limited slip, or locked (welded or spool). For rubber, a limited slip or locked diff works well, where an open diff or limited slip works best for studs. Open or limited slip will work in both scenarios with obvious advantages over the other. A locked diff in studs eventually results in a tow due to either a broken trans or axles! Engine builds are much the same. Higher HP works for studs but makes rubber class driving a little more difficult. Find some middle ground to be able to do both classes. It would be a good idea to introduce yourself to the scrutineer for tech inspection to help you along with your build to make sure that it will meet the requirements before you weld or bolt something in and then you need to re-do it!

Ok…Now that you’ve built your car using the specs listed above; you’ve built or bought a cage, installed the correct tires, met the requirements of the supplemental regulations and generally have the approval of the scruitineer…now what?

You must show up with the car at the first test and tune day of the season. This is where you will get your car tech inspected. This is also the time where you will take the ice racing driving school to aid in your endeavor to throw your car into the corner on ice and at speed. Pay attention! Lots of information passed out here in a short amount of time.

…now it’s time to drive!
Get out there and get that all important seat time! Practice, learn, practice, but most important, have fun!

 

A great resource of information is these forums. Please make use of them with any questions you have. Others will likely have the same ones. Saves people from having to answer it multiple times!

 

 

Thank you from your Ice Race Management Team!

 

 

Other basic info on the events:

When you arrive to the track is you MUST find the Release Form and sign it right away including everyone in your crew and any spectators you bring with you OR may meet you there. When you arrive; ask around and someone will know where it is.

This schedule is approximate and subject to change by the organizers

9:45am - Drivers Meeting. Do not be late for the meeting. Arrive at the track early so you are setup and ready. At this meeting; find out where registration is and get registered ASAP and pay the entrance fee. If you are new to Ice Racing, find Race Director (they will be at the meeting) and introduce yourself and fill him in on any racing background you may (or may not have) and what level you are at - he needs to hear this from you as he will be watching you on the track. He will also call you in a few times at the beginning (and if you screw up) with pointers and what you can work on. 

10am - 11am Studded and Rubber Practice Session. 15min Studded first, then 15 min RTI, the studded then RTI. Use this entire session to play with different tire pressures on your car and play with different lines on the track. 

11am-12noon – Lunch Break. A Tip: bring something to eat just in case you are working on your car over lunch break and aren't able to leave. 
 

12:00pm Races start:

Studded Race 1 (Time or laps will be decided during drivers meeting or prior. Usually 12 mins plus a lap) 
Rubber Race 1 (usually 10mins plus 1 lap)
Studded Race 2
Rubber Race 2
Studded Race 3
Rubber Race 3

Plow  break of 15 minutes.

Studded Race 4
Rubber Race 4
Studded Race 5
Rubber Race 5
Studded Race 6
Rubber Race 6

Races over usually around 4pm

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