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donrolandofurioso

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donrolandofurioso last won the day on August 23

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  1. Have not experienced the 5-4 grind, probably because I only do this shift on the highway, when I have plenty of time to shift down. But yes, at the track my transmission and I have some serious discussions as to whether I get to shift down into second gear for turn 3 and 8. I always win, but not without major protest from the transmission. The transmission's revenge usually comes when I want to shift from 2nd into 3rd at the beginning of the straight, when it just doesn't want to slip into gear. Many a decent lap times have been ruined this year by rolling without drive across the timing line while fiddling with the gear shifter....
  2. Most manufacturers expect you to change transmission oil between 60000 and 80000km. Again, on my DD I put my own spin on it and I change it roughly every 50000km. I usually hold a fluid-drain fest, and replace all liquids in my vehicle at the same time....it is just easier like that to keep track of things. On the RX-8 I changed both transmission and differential fluid at the beginning of the season, yet I think I will drop it again before the first race in spring. Not only am I a lot harder on my transmission in the Mazda than in my Jeep, but I think I might want to try a different oil. Right now I have synthetic GL-5 in it, and the transmission does not shift nice. And the car constantly has that smell of gear oil inside, even though both transmission and differential are bone-dry...
  3. Wow, those are some serious tires! I wish we were allowed something like that when we used to race Ski-Joring in the olden days - although that probably would left a few skiers look like an aerated lawn when things went wrong...
  4. Not really interested in your car as such, but you got my attention with your listing....what are black rockets? Care to enlighten a newbie to anything ice-racing? Thanks....
  5. I personally have not done a complete flush on any of my vehicles after changing over to the Fuchs, only at the time of the change. On my everyday driver I did this at around 50000km, on my motorcycles I always do it as soon as I take possession of them. After that I intend to flush every two to three years. One way of keeping your brake fluid relatively fresh is to open the bleeder when you are pushing your pistons back during a brake pad change. This way any dirt and a fair quantity of fluid will be purged from your system, and it happens to be the fluid that was closest to the heat source. Once you have closed the bleeder, make sure that you top up your brake fluid reservoir before you pump up your brakes again so that you don't introduce air into your system. This works especially well on competition vehicles, as they go through brake pads at an accelerated pace. When doing this, you basically partially flush your system at every brake pad change. It is not the real deal, but it allows for the fluid quality to stay at a higher level than not doing anything at all.
  6. Not completely on topic, but nevertheless... Many people are very focused on car supply shops, or race shops. But when you look for generic things such as brake fluid, it makes sense to expand your horizon. The company Matt ordered from - FortNine- has been around for many, many years. It was called Canadian Motorcycle Superstore before they changed names. In the motorcycle world, they have an impeccable name for quality and great prices, and they are a Canadian company. Yes, they sell mostly motorcycle parts. But brake fluid does not care in which vehicle it is; as long as the specs are right, you can use it in whatever vehicle you want. Likewise, some people are hung up on brand names. If it is not North-American, it can't be good. In our world of international trade and companies buying out other companies, names don't really mean that much anymore. Just go on the internet and google...you will get the info that you need. Matt's Total brake fluid is a very common commodity in Europe, yet I have heard people saying that it is probably not good, because it is not made to US standards (???). I personally (being from Europe) know that vehicles in Europe are stressed much more than here, so anything European gets my approval before I look at North-American products. I personally run Fuchs Oil DOT 5.1 brake fluid without any complaints at all. Yes, people look at me funny, especially if they pronounce the name in English (let's not go there). But the fact is that it comes from a large (albeit in Canada almost unknown) company and it has excellent properties. The only disadvantage is that it is somewhat expensive - I believe it was about $30 per litre. But then I have to say that I am worth it ;-) , and I don't keep flushing it out. So maybe I run cheaper with expensive brake fluid than others do with cheap fluid. Just my 2 cents...
  7. aSince then I had issues with my phone, and there seems to be only one picture left. I just sent it to you. Looking at your car in the picture you have posted here, there may not be as much of a difference than I originally thought...
  8. No. Not only does T! stay as default in the sign-up sheet, but I was listed on the motorsportreg list as T1 until I noticed that change yesterday. The last time I checked before that was about two or three days ago, and then I was still showing as T1.
  9. Yes, that is what I am referring to. It suddenly has moved from T1 to GT4....
  10. Hi All this year I have been running in T1 as per the classification website from Ontario. I was listed in T1 for next weekend. Now I looked into who else has signed up for next race, and I noticed that my car is suddenly listed as a GT4 after being placed in T1 for the last three weeks since I signed up. Is there any reasoning behind this, or was there some mistake? Is there some rule that I have not read yet which states that a car is being moved into a higher class if it is doing well in its own class? Curious minds would like to know...
  11. Neat idea! I like the fact that you put a new spin on the time attack! let's hope a few more people sign up, otherwise a RX-8 will win the oldtimer group by default, regardless of the colour of the car....
  12. @Matter, did you put the supplied plates onto your EBC pads? People often confuse them with shims designed to keep your brakes from squealing and do not install them.; however, they are a thermal barrier, designed to reduce the amount of heat that gets transferred from the pads through the caliper piston into the brake fluid...
  13. I have been following this topic with interest. I have been involved in the motorsport world for numerous years, and I have towed heavy trailers for tens of thousands of kilometers across some serious mountains, and I have never had any brake fade based on fluid degradation. Why is that? Have I been so lucky that I always have vehicles with great brakes, especially considering that my racing style definitely relies on having brakes when I step on the fear pedal? I don't think so! There are several factors that decide how hot brake fluid gets, how it responds to your demands, and how much brakes are fading. 1) What fluid do you use? Yes, there is DOT 3 and DOT 4. Manufacturers tell you which one to use. But do you realize that DOT 3 vs. DOT 4 basically only refers to the dry boiling point? Nowadays, brake fluid can be a mixture of all kinds of ingredients, so DOT 3 or DOT4 just means that it meets the dry boiling temperature requirements, nothing else. 2) Do you realize that there is DOT 5.1? DOT 5.1 is completely interchangeable with DOT3 or DOT4 (Note: DOT5 is a completely different animal!). But the dry boiling point of DOT5.1 is significantly higher than DOT4. Where DOT 5.1 shines compared to many of the fancy DOT4 brake fluids is the wet boiling point. Some of the "racing " DOT 4 brake fluids have a terribly low wet boiling point. 3) How do you bleed your brakes? While the old "furthest away from the master cylinder first" is still not a bad bet, it is not always true anymore. Check the manufacturer's bleeding requirements. 4) Do you bleed the ABS system? Modern ABS/Traction Control systems require a specific bleeding/flushing sequence, unfortunately often this requires a scan tool to activate the ABS HCU. If you don't, you keep hoping that there is not some air (or old, moisturized fluid) that will be introduced into the system in the most inopportune moment. Anytime your ABS cycles, you move brake fluid from a semi-contained system into the active brake lines. If there is air, you introduce air. And yes, as you driving around after race day, you are slowly moving that air back into the HCU, leaving it there until the next time the ABS or Traction Control comes on, at which point it introduces the air back into the active brake system. 5) How do you apply your brakes? Heavy truck drivers are being taught to "snub" the brakes. Snubbing refers to applying the brakes hard and for a short time, then letting go of the brake pedal altogether. Why do they use this method? Because it keeps the brakes cool. Braking is a physical challenge, trying to turn a certain amount of energy into heat. The amount of energy you need to convert does not change (you need to be down to a certain speed to make the corner), you can only control the amount of time you exert the brake system to this energy/ heat. The shorter the amount of time, the less hot your brake system, including your fluid, gets (because it has time to cool down again). That means: slam on your brakes hard, and then let go of the pedal! I do realize that this comes with other problems, such as instability during braking, etc. But from a fading point of view, hard braking is the best you can do. 6) Understand that there is more to brake fluid temperature than just what fluid you use. Are your brake caliper sliders moving freely? Brake pads must not touch the rotors when there is nobody stepping on the brake pedal. There is this false idea that brake pads are supposed to drag on the rotor to reduce delay time (or heaven forbid, keep the pads warm!). Do you use the right brake rotor? Ventilated rotors are there to keep the brake fluid cooler. If you replace them with solid rotors, expect your brake fluid temperature to rise. Loose wheel bearings allow the rotor to "lean" on the pads, heating them up, as well. Many people do not realize that hot pads translate into hot fluid temperatures...and most people don't understand that the rim is your heat sink. All systems works together, and just looking at your brake fluid is like blaming the red-headed step-child for the misfortune of the entire family...
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