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Everything posted by mcorrie

  1. Brian did you bed the pads in? No/improper/botched bedding will cause irregular pedal. motul 600/660 is $35/500ml locally now. I’ll use over 1 liter for a fluid change. I used Castrol SRF previously, it’s the best but pricing of HP brake fluid for some strange reason has gone up recently (I bought 1L of SRF for $89 CDN 2 yrs ago, now it’s $160), Motul used to be cheap as well. Not sure what’s going on there but either way - keep it simple, make decisions based on results. If you still want a fluid option not listed here, I am using Stoptech 600 this time around. Characteristics are same at Motul but price is better. I’ll let you know how it works. There was a distinct pedal improvement with SRF - but I thought I was nuts for spending $90, I’d have to be completely crackers to buy it at $160 now. So Stoptech 600 fluid was $24/500ml... Matt
  2. For a dual purpose car, you can use a dual purpose pad. Hawk HPS is a decent one. But keep in mind this type of pad is meant for mostly street use and occasional track use. I only have experience with Hawk pads so I can’t speak to Pagid, Carbotech, or Porterfield. Hawk Blues are golden, but do tend to be hard on rotors. The DTC-70 pads are less aggressive on the rotors and wear longer. I know a guy that uses them on the street no problem. I will probably use the DTC-70 next. If your car is more track use than street use, consider more a race pad. The advantages are consistency and confidence. I’ve over-baked pads and lost pedal during a race, that is less likely with a proper race pad. I get mine at Classic Motorworks. Dyrk can get you the right parts. For what it’s worth, the DTC-60 is a good rear pad when used with the 70 up front, but that’s for 3000lb cars.
  3. Hawk 9012 Blue; HB111 E .610 FRONT Only ran 2 track days on them, 1 of them was in the wet, so they have lots of life in them. Bedded in to the letter of Hawks procedure. They are significantly better than the best parts store pads for track use - car is not street driven. Paid $325 all-in. $150. D412. Fits: 1988-96 Corvette (including 1990-95 ZR-1) 1994-2004 Mustang Cobra / Bullit 1996-97 Aston Martin Vantage / DB7 The 1LE caliper was also optional equipment on 1989-92 Camaro and Firebird. Also fits Baer A-Sedan, "Serious Street," "Sport," and "Track" brake kits. Ferro-Carbon is a unique, high-tech family of friction materials developed and manufactured by Hawk Brake for the racing community. Hawk Pads do not require an extensive "bedding-in" procedure. Keep in mind however, that all disc brake pads require a short period of bedding-in before being used to the maximum of their potential.
  4. mcorrie

    Dry sump pump

  5. Thomas Holland (Throttle House) tested one. He’s a good channel.
  6. @Depauperate you can ask for your exact car to be added to the database. The CASC-ON time attack forums is the usual way to request to have a car added to the list, they have a sticky on the Time Attack forum for base list requests...now that the Forum is still down that becomes a little harder. Ironically enough, I had lunch with the guy that maintians the OTA Database today and I have sent the request in for you. Either way you will be in good shape, as @nopistons has put you on the right track...see you at the races.
  7. I'm sure @Ianfromduff is quite busy right now, but i have spoken to him about this. We are not Submitting/Approving forms at this time. As @nopistons has mentioned, submitting the form is not required. if you have submitted the form, don't worry about it, but don't expect a response. Ian has mentioned in an earlier post that you should bring your completed schedule to the track. Matt
  8. He was one of the greats. He held back nothing, on the track and off. Tough as nails, legend.
  9. right - the OTA is piggy-backed to the CASC-ON site. No worries, i'm sure it won't be long. They are updating as Ian mentioned. Use this link when its up and running: http://www.casc.on.ca/time-attack/car-classification
  10. That's great @Weebly , thanks for Posting. I'm looking at the illustration of a corner and driving line - all from the Birds Eye perspective. This brings up an interesting point; Driver perspective. I used to think i am just allergic to cones, when i went to an Auto-x (MAXA days, wpg stadium or St. Vital center) i would get blinded easily by orange - and no matter how many course walks i did, it was always a battle for me to see the line through the cones. All i saw was cones and hoped i'd get a late run so there was some rubber on the ground before my first run. my car was low to the ground and that changed my perspective - it didn't look that daunting when i was walking around but in the car was a different deal. When i took my son to a hockey clinic, they spoke about the "Pucks Perspective", and as a shooter you may see an opening in the net, but at 5ft over and 6ft down, the puck sees a totally different opportunity. I kinda use this analogy with cones and the track walk. i think if i try AX this year, i will be taking my track walk with my view from the drivers seat on my mind as i look at the track.
  11. sorry, i couldn't get through the video....but Its best for F1 because its been working. It creates something to watch after the first lap, there have been way too many pass-less races in the past. Due to the disparity between 1st and last place, F1 can be boring to watch and has been no more than a procession on more times than i can mention. The DRS allows a marginally faster car to pass in a safer manor. This can be drawn out and disputed all day - and i wont do that, but the fact of the matter is that we have all watched a driver stuck behind a car and ultimately the DRS helps. The technical passing still takes place in the corners and/or by drivers who know how to set up a pass - IE Daniel Ricciardo. At the end of the day, the fast guys are the fast guys and the back-markers are Williams the back-markers - DRS doesn't change much, it adds to the entertainment value.
  12. Bomex did my numbers as well - and some other stuff, good products from them. I use adhesive backed vinyl, i'd be leary of static panels - i've had a couple before and they don't stay on. Magnetic panels can work but typically you're going to have to tape down the leading edge at minimum...then you're going to have be ultra careful with them because they scratch paint. taping them down minimize the paint scratching but does not eliminate it.
  13. Hi Ron - Welcome! As far as your question regarding roll over protection, a roll bar is your only option, there are no recommended substitutes in the rule book. Time Attack Rule book 2019 https://time-attack.ca/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/DRAFT-2019-OTA-Rulebook-144dpi.pdf 1.3 ROLL OVER PROTECTION – ROLL BARS AND CAGES .1 A roll bar’s purpose is to help protect a driver if the vehicle rolls over. A roll bar is required for: i) vehicles with fold down or completely removable tops (e.g., convertibles) That being said, a non-intrusive roll bar is not out of the question. A 4 or 6 point bar is all you would need and that shouldn't have an impact on the cars intended purpose off the track - similar to the Hard Dog Miata bars. I'd refer you to the Chief Scrutineer or Head of the Tech committee but I'm afraid i don't know who that is at the moment.
  14. Brian's abuse of perfectly good tires is becoming the lore of an Icelandic saga... ..That being said, while currently inconclusive, it appears that the new surface on the track is proving to be a money saver for me. The Toyo RR's are known to "wear like Iron" (for a true R compound tire) but I would get a very low number of timed laps from them - the Gimli track surface living up to its reputation of being very hard on tires. After running the partially re-paved circuit, i did not notice any wear. Now, for Auto-X, you're on your own! i don't know if the new Toyo R888R is available in your size, but its supposed to wear quite well, how that compares to your current magazine of vulcanized hell, i don't know. At the end of the day, maybe get another set of rims and track tires? Many moons past, i would do "double duty" with tires, drive to the track and race the same tires i drove there on. I found that it took at least a solid session (and a few passes when drag racing) to get the "road grime" out of the rubber and start to use the tires properly. As you drive around on the street, the oils, salts, dirt and dust, all that contamination embeds itself into the soft rubber - and you know more than anybody the harshness of the city street environment - it takes time to clean them up, and that makes it longer for you as driver to 'get back to were you were last time'. Personally, i will not use street driven tires on the race track, it takes too long to get up to speed as a driver. i have a jack and an impact at the track, they are yours as well so you don't have to bring more stuff...heck, i will assign one of my kids to change them lol!
  15. i remember reading something about a Gimli model before, wondered if he has done some of the work you are doing or if this platform is not related to what you are doing? Either way its amazing how these simulators work today. definitely a cool project.
  16. the event is JUNE 7-9, 2019 https://www.brainerdraceway.com/event/map-proving-grounds/
  17. Yes, ASN will be updating the rule book, there may be more minor changes, nothing has been posted yet.
  18. can somebody "in the know" find out about a Dyno Day at Speedfactor? this would be nice for the schedules and classing. They have offered this previously at a discount to WSCC members but I don't know how that worked. matt
  19. LOL - had i only known... Toyo is a series sponsor, in Dave's post that is not related to the ruling. Even if it was, i don't know if it really has an effect on performance in the big picture They have stated the break is now UP from 140 at 180TW... Note the Fuel requirement change.
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