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mcorrie

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mcorrie last won the day on April 24

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About mcorrie

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  1. LeClerc’s first win was somber and respectful. The kids a class act.
  2. Hey Roland - thanks for background, great info from you as usual! I have to admit that I’m not a big “brake fluid changing” guy and don’t touch the system until it’s telling me there’s a problem! In the spirit of PM I have devised a scheme for my car...I will change brake fluid at the start of the season, exactly the same time I change my oil...and leave them both until there is a problem or the start of the next season! Obviously this is based on usage (and atmospheric exposure wrt brake fluid) and with the 3 T/A events I get to per year that’s roughly 20 timed laps per event...so I am not pushing the limits of serviceability in any way. Oddly enough, I had a problem with both oil and brake fluid this year and both have been changed after 1 event! ...but I have a ‘track only’ car. Not the same deal if you DD your race car. So let’s put things in perspective. Change the brake fluid before the first race next year, change the oil when you normally do. It should all be good. That being said - whats this normal schedule for changing manual transmission fluid??? I’ve still not changed mine in 3 seasons, starting to feel guilty!!
  3. So a bit more back on topic: I ended up using DOT 4 600 brake fluid made by Total. If you’ve never heard of Total Lubricants no worries. They have been around for a long time and their racing fuel brand, Elf Fuels, is pretty popular. In any case it’s more than likely the brake fluid is made and packaged by the same giant corporate entity that makes a vast majority of brake fluid on the market today... What was interesting is the the Total 600 was very similar to MOTUL 600. Wet temp was 420 for Motul (if memory serves me correctly) and 414 for Total. The track test was as successful as could be had, I got the brakes as hot as I could and the pedal started to feel slightly off at the end of a session, but I’m being super picky - some people might not notice anything. It was a lot better than the hi-temp stuff from can tire. The best part: I paid $10.99/500ml from an online store called fortnine.ca - it was $16 to ship 2 bottles or free shipping for $49 or over...so I got 5 bottles and free shipping - that was a deal - this is Canadian funds and shipped within Canada.
  4. Being able to relax in the belts allows you to manipulate the controls with more sensitive inputs....but you will need belts first. EDIT: its getting slightly off topic but worthy of mention as @Weebly brings up a good point with what he is using his feet for and how/where he is able to relax on a timed lap - this is a VERY important part of high performance driving; driving with a proper harness allows the driver to use both feet and both hands independently (as demonstrated in the clip), while the driver trusts his/her harness to keep his or her torso located, that presents slightly more personal freedom with the controls, freedom for increased awareness (yes, its a paradox...). Mario Andretti once said "i'm not going to share my driving secrets...but i will say too many people think the brakes are just for slowing the car down". -matt
  5. if you are going to do this, consider installing braided hoses before hand. I know this bumps you up a class in AX, but it would seem like a good thing to do to ensure reliability while on track. Cheap, Fast, Reliable - Choose 2. -Matt
  6. @Jim Eh. a good representation of the technique @donrolandofurioso is talking about re snubbing the brakes. In this clip from the 1990 IROC series, Bobby Unser describes 'pumping up the brakes before the corner' as the in-car camera is focused on leader Martin Brundle's feet. Martin Brundle, F1 Driver, Lemans Winner, IROC race winner - current F1 commentator needs no introduction...The clip should start at 31:00 in case it doesn't start there in its own. This is the full race (some 44 minutes) but the only relevant info is from 31.05 to 32:30 inclusive. You can see how much he pumps the brakes in preparation for turn entry. https://youtu.be/YcKaAHN40YY?t=1858
  7. Brian did you bed the pads in? No/improper/botched bedding will cause irregular pedal. motul 600/660 is $35/500ml locally now. I’ll use over 1 liter for a fluid change. I used Castrol SRF previously, it’s the best but pricing of HP brake fluid for some strange reason has gone up recently (I bought 1L of SRF for $89 CDN 2 yrs ago, now it’s $160), Motul used to be cheap as well. Not sure what’s going on there but either way - keep it simple, make decisions based on results. If you still want a fluid option not listed here, I am using Stoptech 600 this time around. Characteristics are same at Motul but price is better. I’ll let you know how it works. There was a distinct pedal improvement with SRF - but I thought I was nuts for spending $90, I’d have to be completely crackers to buy it at $160 now. So Stoptech 600 fluid was $24/500ml... Matt
  8. For a dual purpose car, you can use a dual purpose pad. Hawk HPS is a decent one. But keep in mind this type of pad is meant for mostly street use and occasional track use. I only have experience with Hawk pads so I can’t speak to Pagid, Carbotech, or Porterfield. Hawk Blues are golden, but do tend to be hard on rotors. The DTC-70 pads are less aggressive on the rotors and wear longer. I know a guy that uses them on the street no problem. I will probably use the DTC-70 next. If your car is more track use than street use, consider more a race pad. The advantages are consistency and confidence. I’ve over-baked pads and lost pedal during a race, that is less likely with a proper race pad. I get mine at Classic Motorworks. Dyrk can get you the right parts. For what it’s worth, the DTC-60 is a good rear pad when used with the 70 up front, but that’s for 3000lb cars.
  9. Hawk 9012 Blue; HB111 E .610 FRONT Only ran 2 track days on them, 1 of them was in the wet, so they have lots of life in them. Bedded in to the letter of Hawks procedure. They are significantly better than the best parts store pads for track use - car is not street driven. Paid $325 all-in. $150. D412. Fits: 1988-96 Corvette (including 1990-95 ZR-1) 1994-2004 Mustang Cobra / Bullit 1996-97 Aston Martin Vantage / DB7 The 1LE caliper was also optional equipment on 1989-92 Camaro and Firebird. Also fits Baer A-Sedan, "Serious Street," "Sport," and "Track" brake kits. Ferro-Carbon is a unique, high-tech family of friction materials developed and manufactured by Hawk Brake for the racing community. Hawk Pads do not require an extensive "bedding-in" procedure. Keep in mind however, that all disc brake pads require a short period of bedding-in before being used to the maximum of their potential.
  10. mcorrie

    Dry sump pump

    DDDDDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN!!!! gimme a call. Matt
  11. Thomas Holland (Throttle House) tested one. He’s a good channel.
  12. He was one of the greats. He held back nothing, on the track and off. Tough as nails, legend.
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