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mcorrie

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mcorrie last won the day on October 5

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About mcorrie

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  1. mcorrie

    MPI regarding roll cage addition to insured street car

    I drove my 9 second Skyhawk on the street, complete with roll cage, 13" back tires, Hilborn Alky injection and all. It had a 5 mile cruise radius, but sometimes i wanted to take it for a 711 run to get a big gulp. I got to know the Modified Motor Vehicles act quite well as the police enjoyed looking at my car. Ironically, i never got a ticket while driving that car.
  2. mcorrie

    Door bar rules?

    I've been leaning toward the X bars as well. This is the current model I've been developing for the Camaro, still have some tuning to do, but X bars will be compliant. that being said, i might stretch them into the doors like the Nascar style.
  3. a new Time Attack Council has been formed. not exactly a big announcement, but news is slow this time of year... "The goal, according to the group, is to “represent the interests of all drivers, from beginner to professional competitor, in order to ensure access, inclusivity, consistency and a high quality driver experience.” https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/north-american-time-attack-council-formed/ https://www.northamericantimeattack.com/
  4. mcorrie

    Race car tubing?

    Yes, and they have there own regs as well, you will notice they cut and pasted FIA 253 illustrations and some text here and there. If you ever wanted to know about running there, talk to Dyrk, he's ran it 3 times and can answer questions with first hand experience. http://targanfld.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Volume-2c-Rollcage-Construction-Installation-4.pdf from page 4: "(íi) Material All roll cage shall be manufactured from cold drawn seamless ERW or DOM mild steel tubing. Gross vehicle weight under 2000 lbs (910 kgs) MILD STEEL 1.50 x .120 Gross vehicle weight over 2000 lbs (910 kgs) MILD STEEL 1.75 x .120 These figures represent the minimal allowed. In selecting the steel, attention must be paid to obtaining good elongation properties and adequate weld ability. An inspection hole of at least 4.5 mm diameter must be drilled in a non-critical area of the main hoop to facilitate verification of wall thickness." This does not reflect the WCMA mandate of DOM only OR the same weight breaks for tube specs. These special events all have a different take on this. and I may be wrong, but i think your car has to be approved at the local level before you take it anywhere else - maybe somebody with more experience can chime in on that? i could see that stipulation being a road block if, for example, you build a cage to the Targa specs above with ERW and it fails WCMA tech, but is acceptable at the Targa...but you cant run there because your car isn't certified locally...
  5. mcorrie

    Race car tubing?

    Hey, so because this is a topic that can create some good, informative discussion - and as NoPistons mentioned "just in case you go racing", you really should do the footwork now so your cage is correct the first time, and built for the intended end-use of the car, IE: "maybe i'll go rallying one day?" Well, that's a different set of roll cage rules. There are different materials that are approved, but as mentioned, DOM is the standard. Before you build your own cage, talk to the local club Tech Inspector. Look a the rule book and look at a couple cars. Requirements are changing more recently than ever before and because this is a primary structure, it is not to be taken lightly. Why DOM? no seams, its stronger. The FIA in Europe/Asia has a list of "Approved Builders", these builders have fabricated and destructively tested (iaw FIA test procedures) a sample cage and have been deemed worthy, in fact they are so worthy, that the FIA will let them build a cage with weaker, seamed tubing, but you and i can't. And also because we are largely removed from the FIA, we have a local sanctioning body (WCMA) that is largely responsible for the technical specs like roll cages. There is no "approved builder" list in North America, so there are no options, DOM or 4130 it shall be, but 4130 is another discussion... FIA 253 and 256 should be required reading when preparing a door car for competition. Many sanctioning bodies have a slightly different but similar requirements for the construction of a roll cage, the primary tubing diameter and thickness are like mentioned above, 1.5" x .120" for your vehicle as it will be under a certain weight, 2500-3000lbs usually for 1.5". WCMA, SCCA, NASA, HSR all have there own, even a WCMA club, the SCCBC has there own roll cage rules in addition to the WCMA rules...the list is long, special events like the Silver State Classic Challenge and the Pikes Peak Hill climb have their own roll cage requirements as well (and they will let you build a cage from Aluminum!). Drag racing is a different animal, so is Rally - all different cages. So, talk to the WSCC technical representative and look at the latest updates to cage design and you will be on the right track. matt PS: i have rented a mandrel bender in the past from Campbell North rentals, not sure if they are still around but it was a good bender, under 2% ovality. PPS: i have a UT tester for verifying wall thickness thinning at bends. Wall thickness tends to thin out at .0015" per inch of bend radius used. So a 10" bend rad can expect .015" reduction of wall thickness, or .120" becomes .105" at the outside apex of a 90 degree bend with a 10" rad.
  6. ive done it a few times. not a problem.
  7. mcorrie

    Sports car recommendations

    "good" Miata FS: http://www.casc.on.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=35589 350/370Z's are not unreasonable cars to work with. Prices are getting decent and support is there as well
  8. mcorrie

    Toyota T50 transmission

    definite maybe. call me, i know a guy... 204-891-2938 Matt
  9. Truth! its very hard to learn driver and vehicle limits when you can't finish the session...or even start it!
  10. 275/40/17 Toyo RR are available new from Braiden Tire in Toronto and Montreal, they are great to deal with and ship here quite reasonably. They have the 888R as well which i think is close to TW200, the RR is not
  11. I think the lesson here is to document what you do. Bring a notebook and write it all down. Don’t make it complicated, just date, weather, tire pressures and session notes.
  12. ** CAVEAT - as great points have been added below (thanks Corey and Darin!!) i should have emphasized that my experience is just that, mine. I've only ran old RWD cars with racing tires. This set up info is just what i have done and has worked for me... Ok so there a couple things that have been beneficial in wet conditions, but I’m afraid that the really cold AND wet is still uncharted by me but this has worked in the past: I mentioned earlier to raise tire pressures, I start with 5psi. This does 2 things: a) decreases the contact patch and heats the tire up quicker...it’s not gonna overheat and b) for treaded tires specifically, it opens up the tread blocks when normally they will be forced together by the weight of the car. This along with the stiffer carcass, will allow better water flow and better grip. For shock settings, I soften the shocks. As the cornering forces decrease, it’s more difficult to get load transfer, you still need that load on the tires for grip, so I encourage slightly more body roll to compensate for the decreased cornering forces. Without adjustable sway bars, I do this with shock settings on my car. Remember Nopistons sage advice about being smooth? its even MORE critical in the rain because sudden movements upset the chassis and your wet traction is already poor so you will be going off track in short order if you are not smooth like glass. As mentioned in the original post, i will avoid trail braking in cold, wet conditions. This is a “safety first” thing. As break-away grip for the wet tire is really hard to get a handle on, it’s just safer to do all braking in a straight line, if you lock up it’s got less consequence than if you were to lock up while turning. Modern cars with stability control will probably make this a moot point, but i drive my car, not a computer so this works for me. I run 1/16, 1/8, or 1/4” wheel spacers, i tune the car dry with them. In the wet, I will remove the rears to narrow the track width and in fact have added the rears to the front (i can't on the camaro as i haven't got enough stud length up front). This is just me changing the polar moment in an effort to increase rear grip. hope this helps.
  13. Brian - Thanks for the enthusiastic response! i write the way i write, but try to speak less...those who know me know i have an edge, but i am completely approachable! Energy, not Age.You are the Energetic guy walking up and down the pits wondering what you're doing ...if you have any questions please fire away, you can always ask a question, i just can't guarantee the accuracy of my response LOL!!! Darin - thank you for chiming in here. You bring up really good points (as always!), and one in particular i have been successfully avoiding and that's the Ride-a-long. I need to do that, but haven't had the minerals to follow through. We all move at our own pace and I'm going to have to make a goal of sitting in the right seat for a few laps next season. "Smoothness brings speed. It's always a good idea to take a deep breath, relax and focus on what you are doing. Slow laps on the butt dyno are generally the ones that yield quicker times. If you find yourself focusing on your speedometer (TA Folks) or your Tachometer (RR folks) to track your entry and exit speeds, tell yourself "eyes up! Look ahead, far ahead!" and just drive the line. Red mist kills times and tires!" OMG - you are literally inside my head Darin!!! Sage advice, and the 1st thing i try to put into practice....its hard! The importance of where you're looking - eye and head position - while at speed on track can't be over stated. While its easy to tell someone where to look, the hard part is getting them to keep doing it. "Thinking Fast" is a term sometimes used to describe the thought process of a racing driver; I've heard it said that "you need to process data really fast and think fast", but this is bit of a falsehood. The reality is that it's easy for anyone to get blind-sided with data when they are looking 10-20 feet in front of the car, especially at high speed. Your brain can't consciously process the scene your eyes are giving it. You need to train yourself to get your eyes looking at your next target. Personally, I was taught to use existing reference points in the landscape beside the track - a bald spot in the grass, a funny looking weed, anything around the corner you are learning to mark reference points for braking, turn in, and track out. With these reference points in place, it forces you to look up and focus on your next target. Once you've keyed in on that point, eyes up to the next one and TRUST YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!!! This is the way you can multi-task in a race car, with peripheral vision. You focus on the next reference point as you approach the first one, then your peripheral vision will log the reference point as you pass it, letting you know if you were on or off point...maybe i just got a little advanced here, so please forgive me...but its all about breaking down your habits as a driver in an effort to get faster. By the way, please feel free to ask anything... or see me at the track (but that won't be til next year...), i got the red camaro...but i don't have a mullet, sorry.
  14. Learning is the attraction. I’ve never been one for classrooms, but always had a thirst for knowledge – a horrific dichotomy for anyone growing up in the dystopian school system of the 70’s and 80’s. ‘Dynamic Classrooms’ are the only way I seem to learn anything, and became autodidact as a result. Sometimes the results are dramatic, other times you really don’t know you learned anything until a few days (or weeks) later. Such is the motivation for this post, so here are the deliverables from my past 2 seasons in Time Attack. 1) Know your car, Ask questions, more power is not the answer. I ran a few events my first year and really had to learn the car. It’s a daunting proposition when you want to make immediate changes, but being able to learn the car only comes from seat time and changes to the car will be less than effective without that intimate knowledge of how your car reacts. Ask yourself questions, was it understeering on entry or exit? Or both? Was it my line, the track conditions or the car? Was I trail-braking there? There is a lot going on and training yourself to address a single component is critical to eliminating variables. It takes time, iron out your car and your line before you make any changes. Make changes 1 at a time or you will never know if it worked. ASK QUESTIONS!! There are so many people who want to help you, so let them – but they don’t know unless you ask! I am super grateful to Wayne S for taking time to talk with me and show me his in car footage to explain lines and track-out options that really worked for me. I’ve been around race tracks and race cars my entire life. I’ve taken schools and built my knowledge base from some world class instructors – but the most important lesson I’ve ever learned is to never be afraid to ask for help. I continue to learn because I still have questions. The Gimli track fosters a family environment, be a part of it. 2) Aero is Good! After much research and learning, really trying to understand the physics of how and what works on what type of car, I embarked on a journey in search of downforce! One of the things I really like about Time Attack is the relative freedom to modify your car in this manner. After designing a splitter, I thought I’d have it ready in short order “it seems simple enough” I thought, until I started to build it – so part B for this point is “its always more complicated than you think”. There’s doing something, then there’s doing something right. My favorite saying is “Cheap, Fast, Reliable – Choose 2”. Most want Fast and Reliable, you don’t get Cheap with that option. So then it becomes an exercise in patience, but the results are better. It took a year to get the splitter on the car doing it all myself, it took a little longer for the wing, but I am happy with the results. Patience is a virtue, but also a key element of success. 3) Brakes are Grrreat! After trying to ‘drive around’ a braking problem that turned out to be inherent to the cars suspension geometry, I went through an interesting learning curve that proved you are never too experienced to make a simple mistake. My Dad always taught me “measure twice, cut once” while this may seem simple in theory, errors can occur in the name of deadlines. It’s imperative to free yourself of deadlines when working on your car – this requires planning. Your hobby/race car is supposed to fun, relaxing (I can hear the murmuring already lol) and fulfilling, getting that “I did it” sense of accomplishment. Part B to this point is “remove the wrong parts that look like the right parts from your work area…” fasteners are an example; metric vs imperial, spark plugs - segregate what you need to avoid errors - espcially when you have multiple vehicles you maintain. Brake pad compound selection has a lot bigger effect than I thought. And I was able to effectively alter front/rear brake bias with pad selection, I was elated to get on the binders for the first time in 2 years and not have the back end bounce all over the track. Just to emphasize the importance of knowing your car (see point 1) in relation to braking, one event I went to had a simple caveat prior to event entry “if you can’t tell us what brake fluid and brake pads are on your car, you won’t be admitted on the track”. Take that to heart. 4) “It’s just bodywork”. This has been the summer of bodywork for me, or maybe just “losing stuff that was supposed to be attached to the car” lol! From the hood flying up exiting turn 9 causing an embarrassing red flag (and an even scarier look from the Steward!!), to losing my transponder (yet another awkward moment), to shattering my hatch while trying to install the wing (more disappointing than awkward lol). Remember the point about never being to experienced to make a simple mistake? It happens all the time. I forgot the hood pins in a rush to get on grid and the hood flew up at 109kmh. The transponder was held on with one zip tie, that wasn’t enough. The hole location to mount the wing turned out to be .020” overlapping the edge of the hatch glass – poof! All over the place in a million pieces in the blink of an eye. The bigger picture is that of how do you react in the face of adversity? Or better yet, Who is around you? I am grateful for Al M. When my hood flew off, I was ready to put it on the trailer and go home. Al was the first guy in my face telling me “it’s all good, no problems, its just bodywork – get back on the track”. This is absolutely critical. He was right, and I followed his advice. Same for Mat L – I lost the transponder, he ran up and gave me his personal transponder to use and put it on the car (with 2 zip ties, I noted…). Then he and Al both spent their own time searching for that lost transponder – a bigger ‘Thank You’ can not be said. Maybe part B for this point should be “Lean on Me”…Remember what I said about family? 5) Cold and Wet. I have raced in the wet, I have raced in the cold – racing in the cold AND wet is an entirely different animal. Typically I like the September races because they yield the best lap times, the formula for fast lap times is cool pavement and hot tires. For a wet set up I always bump up tire pressure and if possible, narrow rear track width (this is RWD, no idea about you modern cars lol). The wet driving style changes as well. Trail braking in the wet is historically a bad idea, so I try to do all my braking in a straight line, and while all this will help, nothing will help the fact that I can’t get ANY temp in the slick tires in a wet, 2 degree track in 5 laps LOL! Then add in that BEAUTIFUL new pavement and it’s like a switch when transitioning from that to the old surface – treacherous at best!! The only thing I can take solace in is that it’s the same day and same track for everybody, I was not alone! …but those AWD cars are fast right away in this stuff, not fair LOL!! So, at the end of this I look back at this season and have nothing but thanks and gratitude for those I am lucky enough to share the track with a few weekends each summer. Perhaps this could also be a ‘WIF’ or “What I Forgot” post. Because its accurate that many of us take things for granted. I forgot to ask questions earlier, I forgot that I need help despite my best plans to avoid it. I forgot that I need time alone and that I need time with friends. We call it Racing, we say it’s about going faster, I call it learning and it’s about whatever you put into it. Roger Penske’s formula for success is Effort = Results, many people put in effort to make my season successful, the results are that I’m going to keep coming back and pay it forward to the best of my ability, so that I can help more people have a successful season at the track as well. I hope this post is the start of that. Matt
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