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Autoslalom Director
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Shawn last won the day on March 26

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About Shawn

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    Autoslalom Director
  • Birthday 05/07/1973

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  1. Shawn

    How to get 100+ Octane Fuel?

    BOOSTane seems like it would be something to try since I don't want to risk anything with lead even if it is just a test. Buying direct from BOOSTane's website they are currently offing a 20% discount on a case of 8 bottles until May 29. Anyone want to go in and split up a case? Shipped to Pembina it would work out to about 21 CAD per bottle (before taxes and duty).
  2. Shawn

    How to get 100+ Octane Fuel?

    And I just read that VP110 is leaded...I swear I asked the guy if it was unleaded. Leaded gas is a no-go.
  3. Shawn

    How to get 100+ Octane Fuel?

    Chudd's sell VP110 by the liter and it works out to $4 a liter. Pretty pricey but will help me get some more data points for testing. Unfortunately they are currently out of VP110 but they should have more Saturday. Figures, my brother will be out there Friday, I will be out there Sunday (but they are closed). Might have to sweet-talk someone into going on Saturday to get me 10-20 L in a jerry can if I can't get out there myself. Thanks @Ianfromduff for pointing me in the right direction.
  4. In continuing to troubleshoot the knock detection happening in my car, I want to run some high octane fuel to do some further testing. I can see that when running Husky 94 versus Shell 91 I see less knock detection so I want to try 100 octane or higher. Is there any place to get unleaded race fuel anywhere? If not what are my options? I have heard that using an additive will leave orange/red deposits on everything which I am not too keen on if I can avoid it. This is for my daily driver that has all the factory emission equipment on and functioning and I would like to keep it that way. I really don't want to start replacing cats and O2 sensors. Shawn
  5. Shawn

    MCO autoslalom event 1

    @nishanna what happened to the R8? How do you like the TTRS compared to it?
  6. Yeah this is going to be a new thing that we are trying this year. We have done both on different years but not on the same day. I will be working on a schedule for the day this week and hope to have something posted next week. But my general plan (caveat: this might change) is that we will open gates at 10 for registration/car prep/course walks and start racing at noon and expect it to take until about 3 to complete the runs. We then will tear down the course. We will not have lunch break in-between runs like we do at St. Andrews, instead we will have a late lunch/early supper break between the skid pad and road course races. I will see if we can order in some pizza from a local restaurant to have delivered to the track around 4. Like we have done at St. Andrews we can sell a slice a (or two) and a drink for $5. When Road Race is done with the track around 4:30, will will setup and chalk the course. at 5:00-5:30ish gates open for registration/car prep/course walk (probably only have a single course walk unless you can jog/run it, and racing starting at 6:00-6:30 ish. The sun is out late but it will start to get a little dim by the time we get to the end. Again, I have to really sit down and make sure all of these times really work out. We might need more time in-between the races which means starting early but I think we should be okay.
  7. I will edit this page with the links to completed events as they become available. Event #1 http://live.axti.me/results/4ydk-Gkp4 Event #2 http://live.axti.me/results/VynWHNxC4
  8. Great course on Saturday. You will see from the videos that I made lots of little mistakes that probably cost me a few tenths. Some cones I was nice and close to, others...not so much. Inside the car Outside the car
  9. What are you trying to register for? Autoslalom, road race, time attack, etc.? If you are looking for Autoslalom, the car classing thread is here:
  10. Shawn

    Knock knock

    I switch between Shell 91 and Husky 94. I prefer Husky 94 from the octane perspective and I can see that the car has noticeably less knock timing pull with the 94. I am actually back on Shell 91 and have logged my car again after another can of BG 44K and no improvement. Actually it is worse now because of the lower octane. The car was 3 years old when I got it so I have no idea what was used before. And from what I have been reading, most top tier fuels (I know Husky is not top tier) won't clean the engine but simply might help maintain it better. I keep scouring the internet to find how I can clean the combustion chamber without taking the heads off. I found some videos of a product called Heavy Metal that looks like what I am thinking of but have not found a mainstream solution (if you look at the videos you will see what I mean about not really mainstream). I don't understand how if carbon buildup is such a big think for DI cars, why is there not a service industry built around it. I have Audi Winnipeg currently investigating what could be done because the service adviser didn't really know of such a procedure, but then again, he did not seem to really be familiar with what was involved in the carbon cleaning solution they do offer (walnut blasting). Simply due to lack of time is the only reason that I have not yet pulled my supercharger to at least see what the carbon buildup is on the tops of the valves and maybe take care of that part of it. Maybe it would help, depending on how bad it is. It is interesting though that if I was not logging my car, there is no indication that something is wrong. It pulls hard, no hesitation. The only thing about the car is a somewhat rough idle which is an odd normal characteristic of this car.
  11. It is just a NA motor, no turbo, and it was available in the US...so it's probably just not really being run at events. It for sure is nothing to write home about but it's a decent DD.
  12. Michelle's car is a 2012 VW Golf with the 2.5L engine (5 cylinders, 20 valves). Car is stock. I could not find where it would actually fit without using the top most catch all for SS. The car is basically a Jetta so I classed her in HS but not sure that is appropriate. Also I notice that the classing sometimes mentions the 2.5L and just that and sometimes as 2.5L 5-cyl.
  13. Shawn

    Knock knock

    Yup. I just haven't found the source of it. Unless the sensors were faulty. I was trying to see if I could see any damages wires but couldn't. The knock sensors are under the supercharge of course. And I don't see anything else rattling around but will have to check more once the car is up on a lift again. Old plugs looked fine as far as I could tell. The new plugs say they don't have to be gapped but I did to make sure they were consistent. I gapped them to the tuner's spec which is a bit tighter than OE spec. That said, In my one test where I I left 3 of the plugs in and cleaned and regapped the other 3 (to the tuner's spec), the regapped plugs seemed to perform a bit better. Cool. I do have some of the fine grit. Do you know if you have coarse or fine? If it's coarse I might snag it from you.
  14. Shawn

    Knock knock

    It is a known problem on my V6 and until I pull the supercharger to get to the top of the valves i have no idea what the condition is. At least that part is not a terrible job. The cleaning is time consuming though. Guys on my S4 forums have been made 3D printed adaptors to fit in the intake that allows you to hook up a hose to a vacuum and put the blasting gun in to keep it low mess. But I am encouraged if that might cause the problem but I was sceptical and thought it would have to be something in the combustion chamber itself.
  15. I was doing some logging of my car (2012 Audi S4 with a 3.0 V6 with a roots style supercharger) on the stock tune and I am seeing some pull from knock detection. Some cylinders are worse than others and it isn't 100% consistent in how many degrees of timing gets pulled. I can do a series of 3rd gear pulls and each one will have differing results. The one bank is worse than the other but I have logged a bunch of things like cat temp and egt and both banks look the same in that regard. I also can't find anything yet that suggests something is rattling or causing false knock. But maybe I missed something. It has been suggested that it is carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. I tried to scope the cylinders but the camera I had wasn't the greatest and I didn't have to ability to rotate the crank to get a good look with the pistons at the bottom of their travel. But it does look like there is some decent buildup. I just don't know if it is a problematic amount. Regardless, cleaning it would be the first step. A month ago I ran a tank of fuel through with some BG 44K cleaner through but I didn't really notice a difference. Car has all new plugs and coils. The knock detection starts to come in at 45% throttle a bit but mostly at WOT. If I wasn't logging the car I would never know. But the issue is preventing me from tuning my car as the knock detection gets too high with the tune so I backed it out. As the engine is direct injection I know there is an issue with carbon on the tops of the valves and I do plan to do the walnut blasting to clean it up but I doubt that kind of buildup would cause the issues I am seeing in the logs. Am I wrong about that? I have been scouring the internet to see if there is a way to clean the combustion chambers without having to disassemble the top half of the engine. If it is possible. Not sure if gasoline additives will really work or maybe I'd have to run a dozen tanks of cleaner through to get decent result? Any advice, insight or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.