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Autoslalom Executive
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Beau last won the day on July 4

Beau had the most liked content!

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About Beau

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    350>240>130 hp

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  1. Street class shocks for miata?

    Yes that is correct. It might not be totally necessary nowadays, but in the old days with R-comps and guys running big front bar, more than one person had ripped out the flimsy chassis bracket. Can't hurt. RE: alignment - you're on the right track. All those suggestions are beating around the bush a bit. Here's the gist of it. Start with the front. Max out your front camber first. You should be able to get -1.0 to -1.5, roughly. You want to maximize both sides while keeping them even. Then you dial as much caster as possible without losing any camber. For toe, a little toe out will help the car rotate and turn in. I can't remember what I tried, but the more the better, to a point, and of course you'll start to have tire wear due to scrubbing if you go with too much. Maybe start with 1/16" toe out and then after you're comfortable with that you can easily add a bit more and feel the difference. 1/8" is quite a bit to start with, I probably wouldn't start there, although you might end up wanting to add some later. It's easy to that later. Anything more and you might worry about scrubbing tires even while driving in a straight line. Now go to the rear. IIRC you can get more negative camber than what you did in the front, but you don't necessarily want to. So maybe see if you can get equal to the front or a bit less. E.g. if you know your front is -1.2 then try starting with rear at -1.0. A touch of toe in or zero toe is fine in the rear. Might want to start with zero toe. They say any amount of toe out in the rear is bad because the car becomes nervous and wants to spin. I never felt that. Other RWD cars can be really sensitive to rear toe, but I found the Miata to be really easy to catch, so don't worry about rear toe too much.
  2. Huh??? What's a matter, are you sick of your car? Sorry, I'm probably not going to make it this Sunday, but if I did, I'd only have a red S2000 to offer anyway. And I wouldn't offer it to you. So there! On a serious note, Jeff is a very good driver and good guy. Anyone would be lucky to have him codrive and give them driving tips.
  3. Event #8

    Thanks Tim. I was overthinking it and actually clicking on the little "Link" button before pasting the link. Silly. Here's my 4th run, which I shut down after the south hairpin. I made a few glaring mistakes and was pretty sure it was going to be slower, but still had some hope before totally wrecking the hairpin. At that point I just shut it down. Notice the pretty drastic difference in top speeds between my 3rd and 4th runs in some of the faster sections. I'm assuming it's mostly due to the increased grip from the sun warming up the track and drying up all the rain.
  4. Event #8

    Here's my fastest run: https://youtu.be/K_WPnMX9MRM P.S. How do I embed the Youtube video? If I click on "Insert other media" it only gives me an option to insert an image from a URL.
  5. Event #8

    I enjoyed the course this past Saturday! Yes, it was a bit fast in a couple of sections, but that's not the end of the world. It's good to have a mix - maybe one or two higher speed courses followed by one or two lower speed courses. That way you get equal number of complaints from guys with slow cars and guys with fast cars! You'll never please everyone. BTW, I'm talking about small changes here - "higher speed" would be around 105-110 km/h in a 'vette in a couple of sections, where lower speed would be nothing over 100 km/h for the entire course. Subtle differences, not drastic ones. 115ish is a tad too fast for true autoslalom, but it's not crazy. I've driven faster ones and they are fun, just not strictly adhering to the guidelines of the sport. If you designed all lower speed courses you'd have complaints of being too technical and tight and not as fun (esp. for newer folks), so there is that risk of not being as much fun and not enticing more people to keep coming back to the sport. So like I said, a healthy mix for our local courses is good! When it comes time to run a regional/national event, then we should try to be more faithful to the guidelines in the rulebook. I will try to upload my videos later in the week if I remember. I need to trim them first - new laptop doesn't have the same software. Any recommendations? WMM was just okay. I wouldn't mind trying something else. Just looking for basic video trimming (start and end) and ease of use, and free.
  6. Street class shocks for miata?

    Koni yellows like Corey said. They are pretty good, adjustable, and don't make the car ride terribly. Can be set to soft for a stock-ish ride or turned up to stiff for quick transitions and good feedback. Also new bumpstops is a good idea but you can also get aftermarket ones that fit well on the Konis and are supposedly better (they come in 3 colours - soft/med/stiff). Some other advice from my Miata build days: Wheels/Tires: Like any car, better tires is the best bang for your buck. Stock wheels are pretty light so you're fine there. Don't bother spending $$$$ on pimp wheels yet. Get a second set of used stock wheels (should be under $500 for a set) if you want to have dedicated race set and a second set for the street. Tires are cheap in those sizes and the car is light, so it's easy on tires, so your tire budget is like half or maybe a quarter of most other cars. Awesome! (I went from spending $1000-1200 each year on the Subaru to $~600 for almost 2 full years on the Miata!) Brake pads: you'll want some crap pads (OEM is fine) up front and something more aggressive on the rear axle. Miatas lock up the right front tire under braking. You want as much rear bias as possible. E.g. HPS front and HP+ rear. Brade pads are cheap, so are rotors. Might as well refresh them. Alignment: Front: Max out the camber but make it even on both sides. Then max out the caster without decreasing the camber, and make it even. Add a bit of toe out (1/16 to 1/8”) in the front. Rear: Camber the same as the front or slightly less. Zero toe or just a touch of toe in. You might want to just buy a new set of eccentric adjuster bolts so when you do a new alignment you can torque them down good and not worry about them slipping. FSB: 1-1/8” (1.125”) front sway bar from Racing Beat and 949 end links. The 1.6L (NA1) chassis mounts are a bit further back so the bars for that chassis have slightly shorter arms, although apparently you can make an NA2 bar work. You will probably want the "blocks and bolts" mod as well, it adds strength to the sway bar chassis mounts and is Street class legal. It will stop the sway bar from ripping out the chassis mounts. Other maintenance tips - not totally necessary, but stuff I had written down - Word on the street is that motor mounts are usually torn, even if they don’t look it. Only way to know for sure is to take 'em out and by then you might as well replace them. Install new plugs and wires. Esp wires, seem to make a difference (so they say). Most racecar guys they say replace them every 2 years. This car is more susceptible to deterioration of its wires, I assume due to the heat they absorb by sitting on the valve cover.
  7. Seriously LOL'ing over here!
  8. Summer 2017 - Calgary Trip

    Ahh! Wow, that must have been a shocking discovery. Glad your car survived mechanically and can still be raced without major repairs. Just add a little race tape like they do in Nascar and you'll be good to go! Might want to check the other sheliving and hanging structures in that trailer. Hope the wood isn't rotting on you. Maybe just one bad lag bolt?
  9. Summer 2017 - Calgary Trip

    Thanks for posting results, Murray. Glad to see there was some good competition. Looks like there are a couple of ringers in Calgary - Ryan and Cam really cleaned house! After that it looks like a really healthy battle for the next 10 or so spots between a few Wpg guys and a few Calgary guys. That's great to see! Must have been a fun and exciting event. Can't wait to hear from those who raced for a full recap, and hopefully some videos soon. Have a safe trip home fellas.
  10. Summer 2017 - Calgary Trip

    Wow, awesome times, guys! Great driving. Hope you can do just as well today.
  11. Event #7

    Loved the course. It was fun and flowed well. Had a blast in the new car. Felt like an old familiar friend, but not as knife-edged as the last red one I raced. That's a combination of street-class suspension and newer tech tires, which are really quite awesome (RE-71R). I like these tires a lot more than the Star Specs. Pretty sure I ran every generation of the Star Specs and none were this good. Joe had some good tips for most of us after the race. He could see different things from outside the car that each of us could improve on. I miss the days of watching different racing lines from the field while working course. Gotta try doing that again soon!
  12. Summer 2017 - Calgary Trip

    Good luck guys! Have fun out there, take videos, kick some butt, and make some friends while you're at it. Wish I could be there.
  13. Novice Taxi

    A ridealong at half speed or "taxi" in addition to the course walk is not a bad idea either. Yes, there are hurdles like how to keep it fair for competitors. We can figure these things out. Remember why we want to do this, it's to help newbies. Nobody is suggesting a top competitive driver gets another 3-4 free runs at the course at full speed. That would be unfair. Duh. As suggested, we could make it a voluntary thing where a veteran who isn't racing would do it, or a racer could simply withdraw any points he/she gets for that event. Voluntary DNS. I don't care about points, I just race for fun, so I'd volunteer to do it at least once or twice this year. If nobody else wants to do that, then maybe we put a veteran in a strange car from a completely different class (e.g. put Corey or Mark or Boettcher in a large sedan) and limit them to only 50% throttle or something. Kinda like the course design test run. There is also a concern about how and when to do it. I'd say right before the driver's meeting in the morning, or at lunch break. The course should be closed for walking about 10-15 min before start of racing (we don't close the course off right now, but we really should). We could have a car lined up and ready to take the ~3-5 rookies on their guided tour at that time. This is not meant for all novices, who have a bit of experience, just for the pure rookies to avoid complete bewilderment. Shouldn't be more than a few, so it should only take 5-10 min tops.
  14. Novice Taxi

    Great discussion! I think we are closing in on something here. First, let me say thanks to Helix for bringing this up. We sometimes talk about it at the event when we see a bunch of new faces and we all want to help them, but the rookie mentor can't be in every car. This is especially true when you have a group of friends all together back-to-back-to-back. That's ideal from a fun perspective, but not if it means they aren't getting the instruction and mentorship that they need. During events is the wrong time to do proper planning. Mostly we just react to problems and try to keep the show on the road, and then forget about it in between events (oops!). We should plan for these sorts of things between events, like we're doing now! ^ Very true. Maybe we aren't doing a good enough job of stressing the rookie course walk? It should be seen as a way to make sure you don't DNF. Also that's a great point about stressing to drive slowly and stay on course. Driving too fast is probably the #1 reason for DNF, along with not knowing how to look ahead, which is kinda the same thing. Course walks don't translate at speed. ^100% agree. We should think about the organization as a business. Except that we don't make any profit. But the goal is to sell the product and attract new people to the sport, constantly, otherwise it will die off. I think we're all on the same page here. ^Great idea! I'll gladly mentor during fun runs. I know Rob has done this many times, as have many of the other instructors. But just here and there. Let's assign someone (or multiple people) to mentor others during fun runs and make sure people know about it. Sometimes we wait for people to ask. ^True. So how do we encourage people to do their own course walks when it's their first event? They might not know that they should be doing it, or how to do it, or what to look for. Can we take a page from the L1 school and do a guided rookie walk and then tell them there's a mandatory solo walk? We'd need to do the guided walk a bit earlier to leave time for this.
  15. I bought a set of RE-71Rs from 1010tires.com this year. They were about $50 more expensive than Costco IIRC, but had stock in my size. They were about the same price as all the other online Canadian retailers, all were within about $20 of each other (total price). Costco is such a joke for tires this year. The RE-71R is still "temporarily" out of stock. Has been that way since April.