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Autoslalom Executive
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Beau last won the day on September 18 2018

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About Beau

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    350>240>130 hp

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  1. I cannot commit to a league right now, but I would love to come out and do some races at Speed World again. We used to have a league for WSCC racers every winter about 4-5 years in a row. It was always lots of fun, lots of good competition and (mostly) clean racing. Anyway I'll try to monitor this thread or other threads and would try to join a couple times here and there when I'm able.
  2. Hey Joe, thanks for the tip. No I put them into storage for winter. But I would love to get rid of them by next summer as I have no use for them and need to free up one tire rack. Do you have a link or contact info for this guy?
  3. Thought I had posted this already ... not sure why it disappeared. BFG Rival tires (225/50R16) on AP1 Honda S2000 wheels, painted black. There's still a little tread left, but these are probably best used up on the track. $300 for the set, obo. Take 'em off my hands before winter please! More info in Kijiji ad: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-tires-rims/winnipeg/honda-s2000-wheels-and-bfg-rival-tires/1385842670
  4. I was in your shoes about 2 years ago. Same basic wants and budget, but I was more focussed on a Daily/AX car but still wanted to go to the track. I ultimately ended up with an AP1 (2000-2003) S2000. This one had high km so I got a pretty good deal. Still, they are out there, as long as you don't mind a > 150k vehicle. Other than a Miata it was probably the most reliable choice even with higher mileage. I do not regret my decision whatsoever. The only knock is that it's not really a great beginner's car to learn on, as it can bite you pretty quickly. A Miata or FRS might be better if you're just starting out. Also on my watchlist at the time, which may or may not suit you: Miata - tons of options in an NA (90-97) or NB (99-05) model, fewer options in an NC (06-15). I'd go with an older NC if I had to choose. BMW E36 (90-2000) - various styles, possibly a modified M3 or Z3 for a bit more $ and with a bit of history ... tempting BMW E46 (2000-06) - regular 3-series as there's no way you'd find an M3 or Z4 for under $15k, unfortunately RX8 - be wary about spinning triangles that like to go boom. Still, a great platform for the money, and I hear LS swaps are a thing. 99-04ish Boxster - some say be wary of the infamous IMS bearing, but it's most likely an overblown concern C5 base or possibly C5Z - the base doesn't really do it for me but the Z is awesome and if you can snag one for around 15k do it! I saw some slightly modded or set up for autocross in the US for around 12-15k USD a couple years ago - not showroom quality but who cares if you're taking it to the track anyway? Might as well let the last guy eat the "it's been on a track" depreciation rather than you. Still a bit of a stretch on the budget, but other than that it's a great choice for the track. At the time, I had just sold an NA Miata and I wanted something with more power. For autocross it was fine, but for the track you might get a little frustrated with the lack of power. Then again if you want to eventually mod it you can always add power later. Personally I wouldn't bother with NA/NB if my intention was to track the car, but that's just one opinion. I'm sure most guys will tell you it's the best all around choice due to reliability, aftermarket support, cheap consumables, etc. And those guys are not wrong. Nopistons mentioned BRZ/FRS twins. Either of those would be a great all around choice, too. They weren't available for $15k when I was searching, but may be now. If so, I'd strongly consider that. Actually I may have even chosen that over my S2k I could find one. Great driver's car, lots of aftermarket support, fairly reliable, good looks, more power and more practical (in terms of street driving) than any convertible, and a lot newer than most of the cars on the above list.
  5. Congrats on all those who raced well and placed well. And even if you didn't I'm sure it was a blast. I remember Spring Nats being a lot of fun, this seems like it's just cranked up to 11. The sheer volume of awesome cars must be quite a sight.
  6. Much better! I can't stand watching racing videos with terrible wind noise (mine included). Glad you were able to figure out a solution. Thumbs up!
  7. You wanna have a really good time? See if Chris B will take you for a ride along in that Batmobile of his. It's very exciting and can be downright scary (especially if he's driving) ;P
  8. I had a blast yesterday, too. Great course - just techincal enough to be a good challenge, but mostly I liked the wide open parts where you could really fly. Good turnout and the event was well organized and operated. Great job all around. Timing issues - I saved some screenshots into a folder on the desktop with the date (2018-08-25). I'll post about that in another thread.
  9. IIRC you can use any gas that's legal for highway use in autocross, legally. That includes E85 in the USA. I don't know anywhere you can buy E85 around here, but in some states it's more common and I'm pretty sure SCCA allows it. In stock class it doesn't really help you, ST maybe you'll see some gains with increased ignition timing, but in Street Prepared and above it really helps anyone with forced induction as there is usually a lot of gains to be had by turning up the boost, with the major limiting factor being knock. So more octane = higher boost and more power in SP+. Below that, it's not going to be much help, but it can't hurt either. I guess if you were to see any timing pull due to knock even on a stock car, a higher octane would help a tiny bit. But it's not like you're going to see +10 hp. Only stickers can give you that much!
  10. I looked specifically for something like that, couldn't find anything that would work. Only thing they had that could be screwed down was a full battery terminal or a fuse block as part of a wiring kit (which I already have). Nothing for splices or butt connectors. Surprisingly, not even ring terminals in 4 AWG. So I bought all the connectors I need online and now I'm looking for a way to crimp them, properly. As a last resort I will use BFH or pliers to make temporary crimps and then add solder. Not wanting to go that route if I can avoid it.
  11. Does anyone here have a crimper for crimping large gauge battery wires? Specifically I need to crimp terminals onto 4 AWG wire. My car came with a big 4 AWG wire from the battery to the trunk and, long story short, I need to do some repairs including a butt splice in one location and some new ring terminals. I know I could solder them, but I prefer to crimp them if I can find the right tool. From what I can tell there are 3 main types (shown below in the order of this list). I would probably be able to use any of these: hydraulic long, manual lever type an anvil (usually requires hammering but could be adapted with some kind of clamp).
  12. Yeah, my understanding is that the new rule is for traction batteries only, or as Jim (Krank) put it, batteries that provide "motive" power. Nothing is preventing anyone from using a lithium battery as a substitute for your regular 12V car starter battery. AFAIK they are also not planning to outlaw lithium batteries in your phone, laptop, camera, key fob, remote control, hearing aid, etc. etc. At least that is my understanding. Hopefully the ASN clarification will use clear wording.
  13. Mike - location doesn't matter to me. I'd prefer somewhere in the city, but if it's a good price I'd drive out of town. Thanks Jim. I'll have a chat with you later. I wasn't sure if you still had room in your compound after the changes. Regarding private property - commercial property is still private. What MPI means by "private property" is that you can't just park your car on the street. It's on their FAQ here: https://www.mpi.mb.ca/en/Reg-and-Ins/Insurance/Optional-Autopac/pages/lay_up.aspx Thanks for the offer as well, Sledontar.
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