nopistons

First I've heard of this. Did they ask where that specific regulation is listed in writing? I find that the folks at the call center aren't that's knowledgeable when it comes to specifics. I have gone right to vehicle standards for those types of questions.

Building off what Ian posted... NASCAR bars (FIA Article 253 figure 11) and "X-Style" (FIA Article 253 figure 9) are acceptable and it comes down to car prep, egress considerations and ultimately personal preference. For what it's worth, I have horizontal intrusion bars on my last 3 cars and if i have to build another, it will be an 'X'. That setup plays better with the FIA halo support bar (FIA Article 253 figure 15) and being able to get in and out of the car. Note the accepted design for 2019... 2.B ACCEPTED DESIGNS All vehicles, regardless of date of manufacture, must be fitted with a roll cage conforming to the following specifications (Please note, effective January 1st 2019 new regulations will align with Appx 1 Sections 1, 2.1, 2.A and 2.B.1) 1. FIA a. A Cage that is FIA Homologated, or b. A Cages that conform to the FIA International Sporting Code article 253-8 Appendix J article 8 at the time of vehicle registration. i. Door bars (covered in 8.3.2.1.2), maybe be in anti-intrusion design (multiple plains), if they are according to drawing 253-9 or 253-11 ii. DOM is an acceptable alternate (CDS)

Event 1 Lake Shirley (OPEN) Event 2 Event 3 Event 4 Event 5

True, and if he does go rally racing, the extra bars can easily be added to the standard FIA bar layout. There are a couple folks who regularly run in Gimli with "rally" cages for the inevitable "someday".

1.5" x 0.120 wall DOM covers everything. Make sure you are using a bender that has the correct bend radii and ovalling requirements and follow FIA spec 253 for your tube layout. If you are going to do it, might as well do it as if you are going racing...cuz ya never know!!

Yes you can run without the top but if your helmet protrudes beyond the roll bar, you will be unable to enter the track due to safety concerns. Theres also the part of having something over your head for the inevitable downpour! Perhaps the convertible part of the search needs a re-think?

I should be able to make it!

No Pistons Racing Perrin Tire Pressure Gauge

Nice to see you are using the trans (and blanket)!

Hmmm if you still need the size from January in a 200TW, i have some BFG Rivals.

One entirely separate comment from above... If you want to become a better driver in all conditions...go to MPI/kijiji/FB-MP or wherever, buy a inexpensive, mechanically sound, manual trans lump (for enviro reasons) and partake in ice racing hot laps this winter! This might even include the winter beater you already have! I can't stress enough how much you will learn. Or how much fun you will have doing it.

For all the folks that haven't had the benefit of running GMP in the rain, you are in for a treat. So much to learn! Luckily, you will find that with few exceptions, GMP drains fairly well. Wet/Snow laps...turn the track into dragstrips with corners! Work into it a bit at a time. Brake in a straight line and take the "outside" line. Stay off the shiny bits. You'll need to play the inch-or-two game to find the best line you can take. At our HPDE, we always have the question come up of whether or not to have two sets of tires with different treads for wet and dry conditions. Most of us seasoned racers who aren't required to run a spec rain tire, only have one model of tires and adjust accordingly. To say, add or subtract pressures for rain is a really interesting discussion with no real right or wrong answer. Each brand of tire, and each model of tire within that brand reacts differently. Adding in the variability in each vehicle make, model and setup, saying "typically you just add 3psi of pressure and you're golden" is poor advice. Generalities can be made but ultimately, trial and error is the name of the game. I suggest starting with your usual suspension and tire settings. It may surprise you. My racer has 12 settings on the shocks, 3 adjustments on the sway bar and easily adjustable camber/caster settings. I'll be honest, for the amount of times I raced in the rain or other adverse conditions at the track, I've changed nothing suspension wise based on what the weather was doing. My motto is set it and forget it. Each session will be different as the ambient temperatures change, precipitation changes, and the surface conditions change. Find something that works 90% of the time and work with what you have the other 10%. Who wants to lay on your back in the cold rain fiddling with a sway bar or shocks? (If yours are like mine and have the adjustment knob at the lower mount of the shock) Definitely not this guy! haha I will adjust tire pressures but would start with whatever was in the tire, read the tire, change my line and adjust. I'm much to lazy to go and mess with suspension when our track, or my skill level, likely won't yield large enough results for the effort...or for just being cold and wet! If you have a setup you like for the dry track, and you must play with it, make sure you document it BEFORE you change for the session. This way, you can always go back to square one, to what you know, and move from there. Will you go off the track? Maybe! Don't get discouraged. Learn "why" from your experience. I'll be the first one to admit that I've been off the track at almost every corner in some fashion, for whatever reason. Most of us have. One more large item...for track driving in adverse conditions, make sure you are well rested. It's an early, cold day and your attention must be on what you are doing. This is always the case, however, slick conditions will display your inattentiveness swiftly and publicly!

What school was this and how long ago?

I would add that its easy to get discouraged, either by lack of improvement or from external influences (people, weather, general track conditions etc). It's easy sitting in front of a computer screen and say, "Don't let that (or them) bother you" and go out there and do what you need to do. Take every bump in the road, emotional or physical, as an opportunity to learn about your car, and your driving. People will come and go, and can be as unpredictable as the weather. At least the weather you can dress for and the track conditions your can dress your car appropriately for! Try new lines, an inch or two from your "usual" spot. Raise or lower your tire pressures. Small changes on the car can yield large results! If times are what your after, then it's easy to try too hard. Same goes for racing and trying to pass a fellow competitor. Both items take practice and patience, the latter being the hard one to keep. Smoothness brings speed. It's always a good idea to take a deep breath, relax and focus on what you are doing. Slow laps on the butt dyno are generally the ones that yield quicker times. If you find yourself focusing on your speedometer (TA Folks) or your Tachometer (RR folks) to track your entry and exit speeds, tell yourself "eyes up! Look ahead, far ahead!" and just drive the line. Red mist kills times and tires! Use the resources available to you! Every competitor can be a tutor to some degree. There is so much you can learn by having someone ride with you (or you go with them) on a Friday. If there's a competitor that always seems to have the edge on you, or perhaps its a buddy you're bench racing with, ask if they will take you for a ride! You might learn a thing or two about your own driving, but also might pick up on your own "edge" to get by them next time!!! I'll admit i like working the school because it teaches/reminds me where I can go and where I can't. I use it as opportunities practice the corners over and over again without ever touching the wheel. Seeing different perspectives makes you think and new things pop up every now and again. And yes, as Matt had said, ask questions. As everyone has a slightly different setup on their cars, or ideas on what go-fast goodies to use and why. asking questions can give you insight to what they are doing differently than you, both in vehicle performance and where they position their car on the track. You can then choose whether or not it might work for yourself!

Link posted.