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  1. 7 points
    The Aficionado for January 2019 with the 2018 club results and the description of the Gimli Motorsports Park Asphalt Resurfacing Project. Please email any updates, corrections or suggestions regarding this newsletter to: khilash@mac.com. Aficionado 2019 01.pdf
  2. 6 points
    Photos should be available to download if you wish to do so.
  3. 4 points
    The Aficionado for April 2019 with the 2019 ice racing results, race weekend comparison, 2018 survey results and details of our upcoming events. Please email any updates, corrections or suggestions regarding this newsletter to: khilash@mac.com. Aficionado 2019 04.pdf
  4. 2 points
    Mazda 323 ice racer current sfi belts, legal roll cage , black rockets , rpm chip adjuster, efi fuel curve adjustment , all new front end equipment 2 seasons ago , awesome sold starter car ready to race in Wpg beach or gimli $3500 with rockets or $3000 without black rockets.
  5. 2 points
    Not completely on topic, but nevertheless... Many people are very focused on car supply shops, or race shops. But when you look for generic things such as brake fluid, it makes sense to expand your horizon. The company Matt ordered from - FortNine- has been around for many, many years. It was called Canadian Motorcycle Superstore before they changed names. In the motorcycle world, they have an impeccable name for quality and great prices, and they are a Canadian company. Yes, they sell mostly motorcycle parts. But brake fluid does not care in which vehicle it is; as long as the specs are right, you can use it in whatever vehicle you want. Likewise, some people are hung up on brand names. If it is not North-American, it can't be good. In our world of international trade and companies buying out other companies, names don't really mean that much anymore. Just go on the internet and google...you will get the info that you need. Matt's Total brake fluid is a very common commodity in Europe, yet I have heard people saying that it is probably not good, because it is not made to US standards (???). I personally (being from Europe) know that vehicles in Europe are stressed much more than here, so anything European gets my approval before I look at North-American products. I personally run Fuchs Oil DOT 5.1 brake fluid without any complaints at all. Yes, people look at me funny, especially if they pronounce the name in English (let's not go there). But the fact is that it comes from a large (albeit in Canada almost unknown) company and it has excellent properties. The only disadvantage is that it is somewhat expensive - I believe it was about $30 per litre. But then I have to say that I am worth it ;-) , and I don't keep flushing it out. So maybe I run cheaper with expensive brake fluid than others do with cheap fluid. Just my 2 cents...
  6. 2 points
    I have been following this topic with interest. I have been involved in the motorsport world for numerous years, and I have towed heavy trailers for tens of thousands of kilometers across some serious mountains, and I have never had any brake fade based on fluid degradation. Why is that? Have I been so lucky that I always have vehicles with great brakes, especially considering that my racing style definitely relies on having brakes when I step on the fear pedal? I don't think so! There are several factors that decide how hot brake fluid gets, how it responds to your demands, and how much brakes are fading. 1) What fluid do you use? Yes, there is DOT 3 and DOT 4. Manufacturers tell you which one to use. But do you realize that DOT 3 vs. DOT 4 basically only refers to the dry boiling point? Nowadays, brake fluid can be a mixture of all kinds of ingredients, so DOT 3 or DOT4 just means that it meets the dry boiling temperature requirements, nothing else. 2) Do you realize that there is DOT 5.1? DOT 5.1 is completely interchangeable with DOT3 or DOT4 (Note: DOT5 is a completely different animal!). But the dry boiling point of DOT5.1 is significantly higher than DOT4. Where DOT 5.1 shines compared to many of the fancy DOT4 brake fluids is the wet boiling point. Some of the "racing " DOT 4 brake fluids have a terribly low wet boiling point. 3) How do you bleed your brakes? While the old "furthest away from the master cylinder first" is still not a bad bet, it is not always true anymore. Check the manufacturer's bleeding requirements. 4) Do you bleed the ABS system? Modern ABS/Traction Control systems require a specific bleeding/flushing sequence, unfortunately often this requires a scan tool to activate the ABS HCU. If you don't, you keep hoping that there is not some air (or old, moisturized fluid) that will be introduced into the system in the most inopportune moment. Anytime your ABS cycles, you move brake fluid from a semi-contained system into the active brake lines. If there is air, you introduce air. And yes, as you driving around after race day, you are slowly moving that air back into the HCU, leaving it there until the next time the ABS or Traction Control comes on, at which point it introduces the air back into the active brake system. 5) How do you apply your brakes? Heavy truck drivers are being taught to "snub" the brakes. Snubbing refers to applying the brakes hard and for a short time, then letting go of the brake pedal altogether. Why do they use this method? Because it keeps the brakes cool. Braking is a physical challenge, trying to turn a certain amount of energy into heat. The amount of energy you need to convert does not change (you need to be down to a certain speed to make the corner), you can only control the amount of time you exert the brake system to this energy/ heat. The shorter the amount of time, the less hot your brake system, including your fluid, gets (because it has time to cool down again). That means: slam on your brakes hard, and then let go of the pedal! I do realize that this comes with other problems, such as instability during braking, etc. But from a fading point of view, hard braking is the best you can do. 6) Understand that there is more to brake fluid temperature than just what fluid you use. Are your brake caliper sliders moving freely? Brake pads must not touch the rotors when there is nobody stepping on the brake pedal. There is this false idea that brake pads are supposed to drag on the rotor to reduce delay time (or heaven forbid, keep the pads warm!). Do you use the right brake rotor? Ventilated rotors are there to keep the brake fluid cooler. If you replace them with solid rotors, expect your brake fluid temperature to rise. Loose wheel bearings allow the rotor to "lean" on the pads, heating them up, as well. Many people do not realize that hot pads translate into hot fluid temperatures...and most people don't understand that the rim is your heat sink. All systems works together, and just looking at your brake fluid is like blaming the red-headed step-child for the misfortune of the entire family...
  7. 2 points
    I love it! Not so hot on the square-round steering wheel, or the thought of tire prices... Some people are really hating it. I hope this thing is a huge seller. Like, practically flooding the market. Then, I'll get a nice used one for used GM prices in 5-10 years. Most of them will get idled around with the occasional blast of power. That kind of performance scares most people.
  8. 2 points
    Most of the road racers use the stuff from Canadian Tire. “Super dot3, 500F”. If the pedal gets soft, we simply open the screw and let it drip for a minute while rotating tires. Might not work on the Brembo calliper with the bleed screw straight up, but the fluid should, cheap when on sale. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/oem-dot-3-brake-fluid-ford-500-degrees-946ml-0381928p.html#srp
  9. 2 points
    Hi Everyone! Just a reminder that the 2019 Performance Driving school is open and taking registrations! To Register, go here! It's only been live for 24h and we already have 7 entries! Register early to guarantee your spot! Just like last season, this year is sponsored by Speed Factor Racing. Check them out if you need go-fast goodies, helmets, gloves or other safety gear!
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    The days leading up to the race were pretty hectic and we didn't have much of a chance to relax before the green flag dropped. Porsche had a 35+ page manual of updates that had to be completed on the car in addition to the typical race weekend prep and setup optimization. On top of all that, we had a coolant leak from the gearbox heat exchanger during the last practice session that required dropping the gearbox to fix. The middle picture is my view during all on-track sessions. I use my laptop screen to run a software connected to the live timing feed and also have a direct connection to messaging with race control and timing and scoring. The screen right in front of me is an extension from my laptop and displays the telemetry feed from the car. Our telemetry uses connection to a 4G cell network to broadcast its information so typically at the start of the race when everyone is posting on social media our connection does not work. The screen to the left of me is the live TV feed of the race and the screen to the right of me is an array of all the cameras around the track in live time. We access these TV feeds from coax bulkheads installed in pit lane which also includes channels displaying weather information, radar and timing.
  12. 2 points
    Michael Schumacher - Immortal (The Youtube Video). (Image above: Ferrari F2004, Wikipedia) Michael Schumacher is known by many as the greatest racing driver in human history. I have to admit the video below has been made brilliantly and it's worth watching. Schumacher began his career with Eddie Jordon who brought him into Formula 1. Schumacher later joined Ferrari and went to become the greatest driver ever in Formula 1 history by becoming a seven time Formula 1 World Champion by 2004. I grew up watching this great man and I will never forget the memories he made while driving for Ferrari. To all car fans on here. Here is the YouTube video below of the great Michael Schumacher: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5ahkfc1kKg
  13. 2 points
    Thankfully when we were at the Roar we were able to use one of the garage spaces and qualified high enough to secure one for the race this week as well. It's nice having a garage to work in since it eliminates the time required to setup and take down the trailer awning, the only downside is that you have less room to work on the car. This past week we finished up all the final prep for the car, including almost an entire day of fuel drop tests to match our required BoP for the weekend for in-car tank volume and flow rate. I always had heard teams complaining about how long it takes to get their setups perfect and now I finally understand why. So many factors are at play to ensure results are repeatable: fuel level in fuel rig, length of hose, height of re-fueler, distance of car from fuel rig and of course restrictor size. Today we officially released our livery for the Rolex 24 Hours of Daytona, a very Canadian buffalo plaid. At first it started off as a joke between our team manager (Steve Bortolotti) and the Pfaff creative director (Laurance Yap) but our sponsors got on board with it and we may even be securing a sponsorship from Smoke's Poutinerie because of it.
  14. 2 points
    Hey Ken! As a technical writer for a Publications Department, I can appreciate the amount of work that goes into one of these newsletters. I haven't seen any previous issues, but I must say that the current issue is extremely well done. Do you think we should also mention that the track resurfacing donations can be made electronically on the WSCC homepage? The PayPal or credit card option is nice and even offers monthly payments. That works better for people like me who would rather spread out the payments over several months, rather than a lump sum payment. Again, kudos to you and all the contributors that made the newsletter happen!
  15. 1 point
    I haven't gone to that school (yet), but I've raced around that track before. I want to take the school at every new track I go to, there is always something to learn. I would like to go to this one some day. My favorite thing about the HPDE Events at big U.S. tracks is that the instructors are passengers. I took one in Nebraska a few years ago put on by "Track Guys" and it was pretty incredible, I learned a ton from them. I've always wondered how much a student can learn from an instructor driving their car, especially one they have little to no previous experience in. Instructors are usually racers themselves, but that can mean they know a whole different bag of tricks sometimes, coming from a completely different racing world. Personally, as a passenger, I would learn best riding shotgun in the instructor's own race car that he knows like the back of his hand. I've never seen that option at an HPDE before either, but I think it would be pretty cool. Our instructors here are pretty great too, I remember being quite protective when I took our school. In the end we got along and I learned a lot from them. Heck, I still learn tons from all these guys at every event, even if it's just by watching them all fly by with a flag in my hand. Here's a link to Track Guys if you would like to check them out: http://www.trackguys.com/
  16. 1 point
    So I did some digging and found my grandfather's wscc emblem. This was from when he had a triumph TR3 in the late 50s or early 60s. Does anyone else own or know anything about these emblems?
  17. 1 point
    Can you buy silent auction tickets by the roll?
  18. 1 point
    Hmm, I was kind of wondering about the choice of words on the unedited version. Good catch! Not sure why they call it a "silent" auction. Obviously not the case last year when my better half was yelling at me as to which prize bags I should be putting my tickets into. Not sure why I need kitchenware or a visit to a Spa for a pedicure. Maybe I'm missing something? Seriously though, you're doing a great job organizing the banquet @cboettch
  19. 1 point
    Ditto for me. Great job Ken! I know most people use social media for keeping up on social activities but I would highly recommend putting the Aficionado on your reading list. I enjoyed the article on Autocross Nationals. I love reading articles written with passion ... better than using a pen.
  20. 1 point
    1981 Sachs Seville moped scooter on Kijiji https://www.kijiji.ca/v-scooters-pocket-bikes/winnipeg/1981-sachs-seville-moped-scooter/1464386819?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=sms I bought this to put a lifan (Honda reproduction 4 stroke 50-125cc) Its been in my possession stored in covered buildings for 25 years If someone at Gimli may want a pitbike project this would be super cool . Brakes work, shocks work, tires hold air and aren’t cracked up. Ill let go of it to someone here for $100 or a reasonable offer. I don’t want it to become scrap.
  21. 1 point
    The RX8 trans can't use GL5. It must be GL4! It will be notchy and grind 3-2 and 5-4. Redline MT90
  22. 1 point
    I have a hoarding problem and have spent this entire weekend sorting my junk. Going to scrap a D16Z6 bottom end and a pair of non-vtec heads if nobody here wants them. One head is from a D15B2, the other I think is a D16A6 head but might be a D15B7 head. Also have a pair of intake manifolds. The bottom end was pulled when the water pump let go, ran but used a lot of oil. It has no oil pan. D15B2 head may have bent valves, I never ran the A6(b7?) head. Also have a 1995 Civic coupe I will likely be scrapping in a little bit if anyone is interested in parts or whole. D16A6 bottom end with D16Z6 head with a P28 computer, Si transmission with an OBX helical LSD.
  23. 1 point
    Okay, that's just plain crazy. And here I thought you're supposed to rest your clutch foot on the dead pedal while going down the front straight and take some deep breaths and relax before hitting the brakes for corner one. This is the one part of the lap that I find relaxing. The idea of pumping the brakes with my clutch foot and hoping that I will actually have brakes as I reach the braking markers takes away my relaxation moment and changes it to anxiety. Not sure this is in compliance with my doctor's advice when he said … " you should avoid stress". Cool video clip, though. Thanks.
  24. 1 point
    Agree. Do the lines, then get the flush done. But $350 is more than enough to purchase a tool that will cycle the ABS for you.
  25. 1 point
    Wow!! You brought up some really good points @donrolandofurioso. I think you hit on a couple of points that might be contributing to my problems. In my last post I said I would update and report on the results of using Motul RBF 660 brake fluid. The afternoon temperatures on Saturday (Event #3) reached 30°C so it was a good day to test for high brake temperatures. However, the same pattern repeated itself … great brakes until the last session of the day. Only this time, a LOT of air got into the system and I had to bail out (pedal went 90% to the floor). Got home and gravity bled right front only. Didn't notice any air coming out of outboard pistons but got a lot of air coming out of inboard pistons. Brake pedal feel came back to almost normal. I'm leaning toward air being drawn into the system (fittings? brake hose?) or maybe migrating from the ABS module. I have a hard time believing that the fresh 660 brake fluid was actually boiling. I didn't feel confident returning to the track on Sunday and have the same problem reoccur, so I called it a day. I like your theory about air hiding inside the ABS unit and just waiting to spring out when the ABS cycles and then do their evil deed. I don't recall, one way or the other, whether I triggered an ABS event on my last session, but it's certainly possible. I went down to Vickar Ford and tried to get an explanation on how they flush the system while cycling the ABS module. Apparently it's a time consuming process where they suction out the old fluid, and then pressure-fill and bleed while activating the ABS system. Something like >$350. My car's in the body shop this week after being rear-ended (obviously not due to me stopping short), so I won't take any action until next week. Probably try one more flush procedure before spending $300 -$400 at the dealership. Thanks again for the great input!
  26. 1 point
    This car is the first car in a long time that makes me seriously consider selling the C5Z to finance a new car. I am in a crisis....and not the midlife kind. Corey, for the record you are a bad friend for posting this...lol....you owe me more than an evening for posting this! Oh poo-poo I need a C8! As for C7s, they will drop. Sales have stalled badly waiting for the C8. Yet my C5Z appreciates! Which bodes well for the C8.
  27. 1 point
    Ratchet straps don't rust.....:p I am in Winnipeg, near Bishop Grandin and St Annes road.
  28. 1 point
    This thing still needs a new home, as I just don't have time to drive and enjoy it. I have put less than 500 km on this year, and is at 133500 on the clock. The safety has expired so I will let her go for $14000
  29. 1 point
    Sent links immediately to the drivers
  30. 1 point
    He's right. I've driven past there! Didn't know there had any auto wreckers in E. St. Paul ...
  31. 1 point
    Brian did you bed the pads in? No/improper/botched bedding will cause irregular pedal. motul 600/660 is $35/500ml locally now. I’ll use over 1 liter for a fluid change. I used Castrol SRF previously, it’s the best but pricing of HP brake fluid for some strange reason has gone up recently (I bought 1L of SRF for $89 CDN 2 yrs ago, now it’s $160), Motul used to be cheap as well. Not sure what’s going on there but either way - keep it simple, make decisions based on results. If you still want a fluid option not listed here, I am using Stoptech 600 this time around. Characteristics are same at Motul but price is better. I’ll let you know how it works. There was a distinct pedal improvement with SRF - but I thought I was nuts for spending $90, I’d have to be completely crackers to buy it at $160 now. So Stoptech 600 fluid was $24/500ml... Matt
  32. 1 point
    I loved DTC-60s at Gimli on my STI. They wore cartoonishly-fast in street and autocross driving. Felt great, but my gold wheels were black in one autocross and 1/3rd of the pad was gone. They NEED heat.
  33. 1 point
    I think pad life is dependent on the compound, weight of the vehicle (your RX-8 sits at around 2800-3000lbs), and how hard you are on the brakes. If your pads are not designed for high temps you I would expect them to wear a lot quicker than a dedicated track pad. Hawk offers a variety of pads from daily, street and light duty track, and dedicated track pads which range in heat temperatures. Below is a chart that shows their line up and respective heat ranges. I've attended the same events as you and have not noticed excessive amount of brake pad wear. My car is roughly 500lbs lighter and I would say I am pretty hard on the brakes, especially going into turn 1. I run the Hawk DTC-60s (ordered the DTC-30s but due to quality control issues at the plant was sent DTC-60s) and cheapo blank rotors I got off RockAuto. I swap front pads and rotors at every event as the DTC-60s do not have much bite until they are warmed up and the guys at Hawk recommended having dedicated rotors so I didn't have to keep bedding in the DTC-60s. My daily and autocross pads are Hawk HPS but I don't think they would last very long on track, not to mention the performance wouldn't be anywhere near that of the DTC-60s. Dedicated track pads do have a higher cost but I think it's worth it for the performance. You can order them from Speed Factor Racing, if you want something local, or online. I believe I picked mine up from Teknotik along with some ATE Type 200 brake fluid. If you are looking to upgrade your pads to something more performance oriented, you can look at the above graph and find what pad/temperatures work best for your application. If you want a pad that is a good dual purpose pad that can be used on the street and the track you can look at pads such as the HP+, Blues, or DTC-30s. They may produce more noise and dust than your average pad however.
  34. 1 point
    For Subarus: I preferred driving a 2002 WRX over a 2006 STI in snow or on the ice race track. I think it was something about the electronic center diff having a lag, but the WRX felt natural and the STI felt like I was arguing with a Japanese engineer in every corner. Fully locking the STI diff made it more predictable, but that had compromises too. I miss my WRX every time it snows. I never miss either when I'm getting gas and/or when my Mazda starts every time without rod knock.
  35. 1 point
    Sent in by a faithful listener ... Not sure if this will be useful to the racing side or not, however .... please pass along if it might be Princess Auto stores, until May 31st , have Nomex flight gloves , various sizes / colours , on sale for $ 19.99 . Item # 8851883 in their Surplus flyer . I think that's where i got mine yrs back .... Wore a hole in the palm of the right one , shifting " Piglet " , by the end of the Club Brewing Enduro in 1974 at Grimli . Ed Perry Thanks for the heads up Ed
  36. 1 point
    F1 looses another great driver with the death of Niki Lauder , i guess its time to watch Rush again...Kiwi
  37. 1 point
    Well there is a fair amount of video clips recorded but they are all severely affected by the wind noise. So much so that it's hard to hear the cars. It was a bit breezy through the weekend though. lol I'll work on these and see if I can find a way to filter it out somewhat. If that fails I'll have to use other background audio tracks just to cover it up. Stayed tuned. This will take awhile.
  38. 1 point
    Needed to set up 1965 Daytona Shelby Coupe with IRS. Not an easy job and not cheap but very pleased with work at Speedfactor from Jaimie and Danny. Recommend them for any suspension you are trying to set up.
  39. 1 point
    Hopefully slower than me...
  40. 1 point
    A little good news and bad news, The good news, I don't think it's entirely your fault the tires melt away as they do, the almighty Mr. Smooth could drive your car and still have considerable wear. The bad news is your Focus might be partially responsible. You are running a 3450lbs car on square 235 wide tires. That's a significant load if you consider the car's front weight basis AND power being fed primarily to the front wheels AND it's running in a stock class with no significant way to add negative camber AND considering the front strut design you are actually getting POSITIVE dynamic camber on the outside wheel in a corner AND it's powerful enough you are need introduce some serious heat and force when braking. It's really not your fault the tires melt away. Perhaps a cheap way to save money on tires would be to add much more camber in the front (would help with the understeer too) with a camber kit and continue to rotate tires like I know you are already are. However a camber kit would not be legal for your Street classing and I'm not sure what is available for your car. I used to run a $20 camber bolts kit to dial in over -2degrees, hopefully there's a similar solution for you. Also be weary of some >300TW Tires in harsh track environments, the extra void area in the tread face can lead to serious chunking/tearing of the outside tread blocks and wear out even faster than expected. Tread wear ratings don't contemplate performance driving.
  41. 1 point
    I was running these on the Supra starting in August last year. I think they’ll last until July this year, maybe longer. I gained 1.5 seconds a lap over the Bridgestone Potenza S-04’s but the S-04’s were three years old so that may be why. I didn’t have any issues with heat during long sessions and the rain grip is pretty good as well.
  42. 1 point
    Brian's abuse of perfectly good tires is becoming the lore of an Icelandic saga... ..That being said, while currently inconclusive, it appears that the new surface on the track is proving to be a money saver for me. The Toyo RR's are known to "wear like Iron" (for a true R compound tire) but I would get a very low number of timed laps from them - the Gimli track surface living up to its reputation of being very hard on tires. After running the partially re-paved circuit, i did not notice any wear. Now, for Auto-X, you're on your own! i don't know if the new Toyo R888R is available in your size, but its supposed to wear quite well, how that compares to your current magazine of vulcanized hell, i don't know. At the end of the day, maybe get another set of rims and track tires? Many moons past, i would do "double duty" with tires, drive to the track and race the same tires i drove there on. I found that it took at least a solid session (and a few passes when drag racing) to get the "road grime" out of the rubber and start to use the tires properly. As you drive around on the street, the oils, salts, dirt and dust, all that contamination embeds itself into the soft rubber - and you know more than anybody the harshness of the city street environment - it takes time to clean them up, and that makes it longer for you as driver to 'get back to were you were last time'. Personally, i will not use street driven tires on the race track, it takes too long to get up to speed as a driver. i have a jack and an impact at the track, they are yours as well so you don't have to bring more stuff...heck, i will assign one of my kids to change them lol!
  43. 1 point
    I had a good experience with RE71's on my S2000. Multiple hot lapping days with 20+ laps per day, plus some autoslalom. I ran them for 2 seasons, probably 150-ish laps on the old Gimli surface and a dozen or so autoslalom events. Now the car was rarely street driven other than driving to and from events and it's a fairly light car to begin with so your mileage might vary. They did not like the heat as much as I would have liked, which I imagine would only get worse on a heavier car. They had about 5-7 laps in them before they needed to cool off. I switched to Maxxis VR-1's and liked how those handled heat. Good amounts of grip when hot but they really lacked the cold bite the RE71's had, not sure I'd recommend them for autoslalom. I think you'll end up needing to make a compromise as I've yet to see a tire that excels at both autoslalom and track driving.
  44. 1 point
    I'd be down for a drive like always. We have a great time every year. Hopefully we get a few more cars out this time. The past few years it's been just a few of us, which is fine of course, but the more the merrier.
  45. 1 point
    This is really awesome. It's a shame my pc is down right now
  46. 1 point
    https://web2.gov.mb.ca/laws/regs/annual/2019/031.pdf New inspection standards also coming active March 1, 2019 This is new ... -Effective March 1, 2019 vehicle inspection stations must have a self calibrating window tint meter for gauging window tint during a vehicle inspection.
  47. 1 point
    True, and if he does go rally racing, the extra bars can easily be added to the standard FIA bar layout. There are a couple folks who regularly run in Gimli with "rally" cages for the inevitable "someday".
  48. 1 point
    Dude, the first rule of the brown board is that you don't talk about/link to the brown board.
  49. 1 point
    LYSENG #10 - Porsche 356. In 1969 I needed one more signature in my logbook to get my National license, but my MGA had failed me too often to merit another go. So I put a rollbar in my street car and hauled it up to McDonald. This is back in the days when we could by a 90hp Porsche like this with the Carerra knock-off wheels for $1,000. This was my second Porsche. I bought my first one while in 11th grade for $500. It was a 70hp Normal engine. Pictured here with Phyllis Lyseng.
  50. 1 point
    KIKI in it’s original colours as Hugh Hanson bought it. The sight of this car always scares me. If it ever hit anything, I suspect it would split asunder right at the skinny weak spot where the driver sits. The heavy motor block would go one direction, the rear end another direction, and the driver? Who knows where. It needs a good cage to tie the front end to the rear end. Just my opinion, that’s all.
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