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  1. Yesterday
  2. While I'm cleaning out...this is a crew seat from an RJ. It is for the flight crew. It has a retractable Scroth harness and it folds up, all aluminum and lightweight. I was going to use it for the trailer for an extra seat as it mounts to a vertical wall and folds up for car clearance...but it would be great as a jump seat in the back of a pick up or boat or gaming or whatever. $200, but cash talks have more pics can text.. 204-891-2938 matt
  3. Hi - I'm not going to be using this. All aluminum in floor storage box, roughly 16" wide and 12 or 13" deep. Alum honeycomb top, sheet T6 alum box. Professionally made, was sample. Very light and handy - text for more pics or info. 204-891-2938, $100.
  4. I love the wealth of input on this forums. Thanks everyone.
  5. I had some pretty alarming brake fade with the OEM AP1 S2K pads at Gimli so I switched to Winmax pads. They have a pretty good selection based on what you intend to do (street, autox, HPDE, endurance, etc). I have the W3's which are basically an autox/road type. They don't have the initial cold bite that the OEM pads had and do require a bit of heat but once they're up and running they're excellent. Super easy to modulate and I haven't been able to get them to fade yet. They're also a bit cheaper than the Carbotech/Project Mu stuff I was looking at prior to purchasing. So far pad wear has been excellent, no squeal once bedded, rotor wear is pretty good.
  6. These were my favorite pads when i was running the TT. HP+ required 1 throw away run by a co-driver and bit possibly a bit harder, but ate rotors and squealed worse than a city bus on that car. These didn't make the noise, didn't have the required heat up phase, but had a bit more fade when I lapped at Gimli (so i bought Hawk Blue's for that and swaped) Carbotech™ AX6™ The AX6™ is specifically engineered for Autocross applications. A high torque brake compound delivering reliable and consistent performance over a very wide operating temperature range of 50°F to 1000°F + (10°C to 537°C+). The advanced compound matrix provides an excellent initial bite, high coefficient of friction at lower temperatures along with very progressive brake modulation and release characteristics. Many drivers use the AX6™ for street driving as well, even though Carbotech™ doesn't recommend street driving with AX6™ due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise. AX6™ is NOT recommended as a race compound in most applications.
  7. Matrix, FWD model, OE brake setup, exceptionally large (wide) wheel/tire combo for the chassis. Never weighed it but suspect it's right around 3000lbs with driver/gear. Maybe a bit less. We also did a friction break on the rear pads (EBC Red Stuff) to get more weight transfer to the front. More effort on the front pads too. Not sure how much this attributed to additional wear but we were happy with the results. FWIW, I use them on my 2721lb race car, same pad setup. No fade w/o ducting but do not last long in this scenario. Again, the most aggressive pad available for my caliper configuration.
  8. Uncle D's airbrushing in Warren does good work from what I've seen. No personal experience, though.
  9. Thanks Tim! Actually, this car has a lot bigger trunk than my last convertible (Miata). Just because it isn't based on a truck platform (ahem, corvette), doesn't mean it can't tow! Magne, I'm looking forward to battling it out AP1 vs AP2, but also there are a lot of other AP1s I need to worry about as well. So there should be a lot of competition. I'd like to try AP1 vs AP2 on the same course during one of the events, maybe during fun runs or TnT. I'll let you do the same of course. Let's figure out some codrives. Not only to determine which car is faster, but also to feel the difference in the cars and how they behave at the limit. The obvious power and gearing differences are well documented but the subtleties are what I'd like to really find out. Nice that you have a cable throttle car, I've heard that the electronic throttle cars (06+?) lose a bit of driveability/feel but of course that's just what I've heard.
  10. Dam, I really don't think I will go to a 245.... I think they would only slow me down (not enough HP) The tires I use are already taking power away from the car. I will buy a new set of 225/45/15's(Rival S), and I am also going to experiment with some 215's and lighter rims (less tire but less drag). The reason for this is, my car with 185's on it is so much faster off the line and in general that it is almost unbelievable. Now I know that I will lose some control with a narrower tire, but the speed gain could be worth it. I was always on the rev limiter last year with Shawn's wide open big car tracks......lol. I couldn't get more speed without going to 3rd gear, the hope will be that I will be going faster before I hit the rev limiter....? Not sure if the math is correct (getting advice from all corners of the globe). Please feel free to offer opinions (Joe...lol)
  11. What car? Or, more specifically, how heavy was it?
  12. Steve Macdonald at Head Turnerz specializes in custom airbrushing on cars (his low rider is awesome) and they do restoration and custom paint in Selkirk. if you look Steve up on Facebook he has tons of airbrush work and custom classic trucks he's been working on.
  13. EBC Yellows have been decent for us with a dual purpose car. No noises on the street and definitely more bite over HP+ when hot. HPDE days at gimli, no fade and faired well at the couple AS's it did. We do have the accompanying slotted rotors too which helps keep the pads square. They are by no means a full track/race pad and you can make them overheat if you try but with a mid weight car with 110hp over stock, they didn't skip a beat! Car was driven year round. For that particular car, it was the most aggressive pad available...and still is!
  14. He has also covered an ice event at Gimli, one or two seasons ago, I don't recall exactly
  15. That is pretty cool
  16. I wouldn't say they faired poorly but they will get eaten up quick. I had 5 hot lapping days (at approx. 25-30 laps per day) plus a dozen or so events with a few of those codriven plus some daily driving. The right outer sidewalls are fairly cooked especially from all the right handers. With a heavier, awd car I would expect the wear to be to be worse. I'd estimate based on what kind of use you have on them now to be pooched by end of season, maybe earlier depending on your driving style and how they wear at autox. I don't think one HPDE event would kill them.
  17. Nicely done Beau! You S2K guys do realize if you bought a car with a trunk you wouldn't need a trailer and you just might get some torque on the side.
  18. Sold. Thank you.
  19. I didn't mind the HP+ on the WRX for AutoX and Gimli. But I tend to take care of brakes pretty good. I may start with them and change mid season.
  20. Hey guys and girls, I didn't realize there is such a thing as someone that chases tracks/venue. Yes there is and his name is Randy Lewis and he lives in California. As of Sunday in Portage la Prairie that marked the 2299 track that he has been at personally. This is NOT races, it's track venues. I did have the opportunity to meet Randy and he's a great guy and I am proud that he did follow through on our event. He put together a video: Just press play. If you want to thank Randy Lewis for his work, his email is ranlay@yahoo.com or just FB him.
  21. I will take it. I'll text you now.
  22. Just my 2 cents, your type of car will play heavily into decisions on tires and brakes (as others have mentioned). Unless money 'no object' of course! So be cautious of people's experiences, though well meaning. The type of car really does matter, and which event your doing. In my experience only: stock '03 civic used only for autoX and time attack. No commuting at all. On oem ventilated rotors, 200 tread wear tires. And lapping day considerations are not included here; far more wear and tear on those days. Stock pads were ok for grip and lasted forever at autoX. But completely gone after two or three Gimli Time Attacks. Fade was experienced too, so little confidence in them in Gimli. Hawk HP+ were again ok for autoX (second pivot usually grabbed better than the first (no heat I guess, plus could be a function of cold tires too) and again lasted for ever. But amazing great grip for Gimli!!! I can go DEEP into corners with confidence. (Good tires help too of course). Also the HP+'s can last me a couple seasons. BTW, my HP+'s have never honked or squealed like they usually do for others, and especially on light cars like mine. Weird, but another data point. My second-hand experience: cars that are heavier and higher horse power than me go through brakes (and tires) much faster. To be expected, but still a surprising juxtaposition just how much faster. I have even heard of some cars going through a set of tires and/or pads in one day. I'm not sure if you are using a WRX, as mentioned in the OP, but that class of car does fall into the faster car category. So I'd say the HP+ level of brake pads or higher for Gimli usage. And if you're willing to switch pads between disciplines, then race pads could be the ticket for you if you're really serious about lap times. The drive up could potentially be a concern though when race pads are cold.
  23. I got this as a PM and realized it might be better to reply here... You and your fellow competitors run the track at the same session. Each competitor competes and races against the clock to better their lap times. As everyone has different cars, with different preparations, each competitor is assigned a PAX factor that levels the playing field. This is how a Corvette can compete with a Chevette on the track at the same time even though one is obviously significantly faster than the other. It does not matter one bit which car you bring to the track as you will be competitive with your fellow track mates providing you have done the PAX calculator correctly. The only time this isn't the case is the fastest overall lap time trophy. That goes to whoever has the fastest car throughout the season. As noted above, as you move through the season, your fastest laps are noted and assessed points based on your PAX. Championship trophies are awarded accordingly. All events are held during road race events
  24. Tony Bage at Bage Air (http://www.wickedgoalie.com/) Did real flames on my hood, helmet and sled.
  25. Last week
  26. I agree with these guys. Best bet is to find a suitable street/AX pad and a separate track pad. Unfortunately I never found a good street/AX pad for that car. Side note for anyone else viewing this thread with similar question for a lighter car - In talking with other folks at Autocross, it seems the lighter the car is, the easier it is to find a decent brake pad for street/AX. E.g. Miata or MR2, no problem with HPS or similar "mild" performance pads at autocross and for daily use. The S2000 and RX8 are also brake fairly well with street pads, from what I've gathered. Anything over 3000 lbs and you'll have a tougher time. Street pads are still "okay" for AX, it's not like you'll slide off into the grass or anything, but they just won't feel great or be as aggressive as most drivers would like them to be.
  27. Does anyone know of someone who specializes in Air Brushing? I have an old vehicle that I want to put on rusty letters on the side of it. Plus I can think of a lot of things I would like air brushing because air brushing is damn cool. Thanks.
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