Jump to content
  • Upcoming Events

    • Jul 14, 2020 01:00 AM
      Location: Highlands Short
      Vehicles: Honda HF2620 Racing Lawnmower
      Practice 10 mins
      Qualifying 15 mins
      Race 12 laps


  1. Main Category

      • No posts here yet
    1. E-sports

      Arm chair racing at it's best

    2. 208
    3. 28,318
    4. 7,271
    5. 4,499
    6. 9,707
    7. 222
    8. 59
    9. Awards

      Recognizing our members!

  2. Autoslalom (Corey Dyck/Tim Robinson - Directors)

    1. 49,267
    2. 194
    3. Course Design

      The good, the bad and the fugly

  3. Drift (Mat Léveillé - Contact Person)

    1. 13
  4. High Performance Driving Education HPDE (Your name here - Director)

    1. 53
  5. Ice Racing (Jordan Sharples/Stephen Leiding - Directors)

    1. 763
    2. 2,844
    3. 2015 Ice Racing Archives

      Archive of 2015 Ice Race TO DO items

  6. Rally (Jared Halpin - Director)

    1. 1,689
  7. Road Race (Scott McDonald - Director)

    1. 5,262
    2. Hotlap Discussions

      Hotlap discusssion

    3. Timing & Scoring

      Timing & Scoring Results notification for events on MyLaps

  8. Time Attack (Ian and Brooke Stecyk - Directors )

    1. 1,763
  9. Volunteers (Dason Wowk - Director)

    1. 28
  10. Membership (Josh Peters)

    1. 3
  11. Commercial Vendors and Sponsors

    1. 9
  12. For Sale/Wanted

    1. RACE CARS - Current/Complete/Running/Incomplete

      Post your for sale race cars here. Included posting date, particulars and price.

    2. 256
    3. 136
  • Recent Posts

    • You need cobalt drill bits...and you won’t need to go too fast...I’ve drilled out metric hardness 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9 no worries before.   https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/13-pc-cobalt-m42-drill-bit-set/A-p8724031e
    • Thanks for the advice, guys. I tried for about 2 hours yesterday to no avail. :( I tried grinding a slot into the bolt and using a 1" by 1/8" thick piece of aluminum bar as a very wide screwdriver but I just ended up twisting the aluminum. Yeah I know steel would have been a better choice, but I don't have any lying around. Anyway that tells me it's still stuck in there pretty good. I heated the bolt with a torch a couple times and tried again and still no luck. Used lots of PB blaster. I tried a couple bolt extractors including hammering them on first, didn't matter - they still spun. I now have a very round bolt head. I also tried drilling it out from the centre, but that would take all night. I think I need better drill bits. I have a set of LH drill bits with "titanium coating" (crap) and all my standard bits are also the yellow kind (crap). I applied considerable force and barely made a hole in the bolt head maybe 2-3mm deep. A screw extractor couldn't even get started. I doubt it would work anyway, judging by how much torque is needed, so I'd probably break the extractor off if I got it to bite. Anyway, I gave up after 20 mintues of drilling upside down. Not worth it. The central problem is still there - cannot grip the bolt well enough to apply enough torque. I will take this somewhere and ask them to weld on nut for me later in the week.
    • Drill the bolt head off. Remove bracket, then remove remainder of bolt. If the bracket is gone you should be able to grips around the remaining thread and remove it. If not, completely drill the bolt out, retap for new bolt.
    • sacrificial 13mm socket and hammer it on?
    • Filling a socket with JB Weld and letting it set on the bolt head for 24 hrs before trying to remove has worked for some people; however, don't just rely on the JB Weld to work through form fitting. Clean the bolt head as much as possible, so that the JB Weld also bonds to the bolt, not just to the socket. I prefer the welding method. Clean the bolt head as much as you can, then hammer on and MIG-weld a M14 nut (or M13, if you have) onto the bolt head. The idea here is to plug-weld from the bolt head to the nut, thus heating up the bolt significantly while ensuring a solid mechanical connection between the bolt head and the nut. Do not compromise on the welding process: heat transfer into the bolt shaft is equally as important as a good connection to the nut (this is why you start welding from the center to the outside). Start removing the bolt immediately. This has worked for me as often as I have tried it. Having said that, when I look at your picture I get the feeling that your bracket is not in a great shape anymore, anyways. It seems that around the bolt it starts de-layering. I would not be surprised that, once removed, you will find the bracket quite rusty around the bolt hole... you may still be looking at buying another one, anyways (or repairing this one).  
  • Create New...